Re: GS-ifying an RS

[Robert Silas <robert.silas@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Patrick,
You must be a tall man because your bar is still far ehead of mine. My 
problem is that I am 5'-7" only and I had to modify my '94 R1100RS to make 
it ridable for me.
I am using 3-sets of bar-backs one on top of the others bringing the 
original bar handles 6 inches closer and two inches higher. I also use GS 
cables and GS handguards. After 170,000 km ant two accidents the bar is 
holding fine. I had to lower the seat as much it was possible but I bought 
the footpeg-lowering kit which put my feet 1.5" lower and 0.5" further 
ehead. I am still comfortable on the bike. The only drawback is that at 
extreme left position of the bar, by touching the tank-bag, the horn goes 
off.
Bob Silas

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Patrick Coleman
To: Oilheads
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 11:30 AM
Subject: GS-ifying an RS


A couple of years ago, I broke my right wrist in an ill-fated attempt to 
ride a sport 4-wheeler. The doc put the pieces back together with some 
mending plates from Home Depot, and 8 weeks later I was riding again. I 
found that I could no longer take the stock riding position of my 95 
R1100RSL. I needed to take some weight off my wrists.

First, I got a top triple clamp off Ebay and modified it to allow the 
installation of tubular bars, 7/8th inch instead of the stock BMW 22mm. The 
22mm BMW bars I bought were too narrow for the location of the handlebar 
clamps. Then I installed a set of old Superbike bars from an old project I 
had laying around. They helped tremendously. I posted a link to pictures 
after I finished.

By the way, I used a brake wheel cylinder hone to open up the lever mounts 
so they would go on a 7/8ths inch bar. The throttle cable was overdue for 
replacement, so I installed a new RT cable for a little more length.

Recently, I trailered the bike to Colorado and back. Along the way, the bars 
slipped in the clamps a bit. I put them back, and tightened the clamps. When 
I next rode it, I noticed the left bar was bent down. Further inspection 
showed the bar was collapsing under the clamp. I was about to take it on a 
trip, so I ran to the only nearby dealer that stocks bars and bought a set 
of dirt bike bars. They are a bit higher and wider, and they have a serrated 
section at the bar clamps, so they should not rotate in the clamps.

I had to re-route the stock clutch cable, and while doing that, I noticed it 
was fraying at the lever end. I replaced it with a new RT cable, so it now 
has plenty of length for the new bars. I am still playing with the bar 
width, so in the photos you can see bar sticking out beyond the end of the 
grips. I'll probably end up leaving the controls where they are and will cut 
the bars.

With the added height, I am comfortable with the seat in the highest 
position, which makes the seat to peg distance a little more comfortable 
also.

I have GS handguards on the bíke to substitute for the heated grips until I 
am completely settled on the bars.  I am thinking of installing Polly 
Heaters when I am satisfied with the bars.

With the superbike bars, the GS handguards would contact the fairing at full 
lock. With the dirt bike bars, they just barely miss the fairing at full 
lock.

I have posted a few pictures showing the original bars, the superbike bars, 
and now the dirt bike bars at the link below.

http://alabamadirtbags.tripod.com/handlebar_project/

Sent wirelessly via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.424 / Virus Database: 270.14.51/2482 - Release Date: 11/05/09 
07:37:00