1966 R69S SOLD
Tuesday, Sep 9, 2014
Bike, pink slip, and bill of sale delivered to new owner
Monday, Sep 8, 2014
I’ll be delivering it to the new owner at 3 PM tomorrow.
Thursday, Sep 4, 2014
Tuesday, Sep 2 2014 [26,096 miles]
The time has come…
After almost 17 years of ownership, restoration, and several repairs I’ve decided to sell my R69S. It’s been fun, but it is time to make room in the garage for different toys. Someone else can play with this one.
Pictures taken this afternoon are below. My history with this bike is well documented on these web pages. Here are some links to get you started.
- Pre- and Post-restoration pictures
- The restoration story with lots of (bad) pictures
- Every service and bike related project
There are over 5000 pictures of the bike in those pages. The early pictures aren’t very good. The later pictures are better. The answer to any question you could ask about the bike is probable in those pages. But feel free to ask me if you like. Please use the email address firstname.lastname@example.org. Mail to my other addresses often wind up in my junk mail folder.
The most recent work on the bike occured earlier this year. The cam was re-ground, tappets replace, cylinders rebored to third over size, new pistons, new valves, etc. Full details start at this page.
Here are the pictures I took today.
I’m selling the bike as a package with LOTS of extras. The details:
1966 BMW R69S VIN 660858 with a little more than 26,000 miles since restoration. I don’t know total miles. The bike comes with the “sport” tank that hold 24 liters, a luggage rack on the rear fender, and home made “bread-loaf” style passenger seat screwed to the luggage rack. It takes about two minutes to remove the passenger seat. The bike is being sold as is.
A spare final drive. I used the drive while I was rebuilding the original drive.
Misc parts. When I restored the bike I replaced items such as fasteners with stainless versions. I kept the originals in their ugly, un-restored state. Also included are a miscellaneous collection of seals, gaskets, lights, cables, a bearing or two, etc.
Tools. A lot of Ed Korn (now Cycleworks: http://www.cycleworks.net) and other tools needed to tear into things. Also included are some of the tools used for normal maintenance. Worth about $1,000 at current prices, maybe more (rough guestimate). A pic of some of the collection is on the service page
Other tools include a six volt battery tender and a self contained timing light.
Books. Some are reported to be very hard to get. They include
- reprint of the “Handbuch” in three languages
- Clymer BMW 500 & 600 CC Twins 1955-1969
- BMW Twins Restoration by Mick Walker
- How to Restore Your BMW Motorcycle by Roland Slabon
- BMW /2 Electrics by Doug Rinckes
- BMW R69 & R69S Super Profile (picture book of another white R69S)
- Bing Carburettors
- Workshop Manual (Cycle works version in one language)
- Parts book
- The Barrington Motor Works BMW /2 Motorcycle Restoration and Service Manual
- Service Bulletins (printed copies of the pdf files)
Videos. The Ed Korn bottom end and wheel rebuilding video on VHS tape. Since I haven’t had a VHS player in a long time I haven’t a clue if the videos are still playable.
So how much? $15,000 gets you the entire package. Shipping is the buyers responsibility. I’ll work with your shipper to get the bike transferred into your hands once payment clears.
Twenty questions (more or less)
Where is the bike located?
The bike is in my garage :) The garage is in the San Mateo Highlands, an unincorporated part of San Mateo County, California near the intersection of SR 92 and I280
Why are you selling it?
Playing with the R69S is not as much fun as it used to be. If it’s not fun why do it? It really is that simple. When the bike needs maintenance and you start grumbling about how you’d rather be doing other things it’s time to get rid of the bike.
Why so cheap/expensive?
Several have claimed I’m asking to little for the bike alone, much less the bike and goodies. Perhaps. I’m not in this to make money. I’ll be happy getting my price. I’d also be happy that a purchaser thinks they are getting a good deal.
That means I’m not willing to deal. If you want the bike cough up the asked $15K or hope that no one else does and the bike goes to ebay where you can pick it up cheaper… or where I get a big payday. You never know which it will be.
What are the payment options?
Cash is nice :) If you want to ride away on the bike cash is what you’ll need. If you have patience a bank wire transfer is safer. The bike will stay in my garage and the pink slip in my hands until any non-cash payment clears. My bank says it can take up to two weeks for checks to clear, wire transfers are apparently much faster.
Does it have three matching numbers
Yes. Why people care about three numbers makes me wonder, though. The third set of numbers is stamped into an easily removable and replaceable plate screwed to the head stock. Who’d trust that to be correct?
Is it stock?
Nope. For one thing the paint scheme is all mine. I wanted a white bike, not Bavarian Cream. Stainless fasteners look good on a white bike. So does zinc plated foot peg mounts and brake lever. I built the bike for my riding enjoyment, not to display at motorcycle shows.
How about mechanical differences?
I changed the camshaft to one that gives more torque where I need it at the expense of some top end. My rear main crank bearing is not the R69S standard barrel roller bearing. There is some debate as to which is better. I don’t notice any difference riding the bike.
The battery is actually a hollowed out lead-acid battery box painted black with a small, maintenance free battery hidden inside.
How fast does it go?
I don’t know. The fastest I’ve ridden it is about 80 MPH. I don’t think it has much more than that, at least not unless I you lay across the tank. Going up-hill and/or into a headwind may require a down shift into 3rd and slow you down to sixtyish MPH. If you want unlimited power and break neck acceleration this bike is not for you.
How well does it stop?
Not very compared to modern bikes. It has drum brakes (and it is probably time for new friction material on the front). You will learn to leave plenty of distance between you and whatever is in front of you or you will crash the bike. You will use the rear brake because every little bit helps. Plus, the rear is the only brake that turns on the brake light. You will also learn that twin leading show brakes as found on the front are OK for retarding forward movement, but don’t hold well on hills. That’s another place where the rear brake is needed.
Do the brakes pulse?
The front does a little, especially at low speeds with light brake pressure. I brought the wheel in to get the drum skimmed and the brake guy suggested I live with the slight pulsing because you can’t put back metal once it’s been removed from the drum. I followed his advise.
Has it ever been crashed?
Does a low speed low-side count as a crash or a drop? I did that in 2003. Cost me a new valve cover on the right side.
As part of the restoration I noticed more wear and tear on the front forks/shocks than the rest of the bike. Also, the bike came with a working friction damper instead of the stock hydraulic damper. My guess is that it was in some kind of front end collision some time in its past and got a used front end.
What gas does it use?
I always use premium. The bike hasn’t pinged since I worked out the propper timing about 12 years ago.
What oil does it use?
I currently use a castrol semi-synth motorcycle oil that is rated SG (G for Good with lots of the stuff flat tappets need). Specifically: Castrol Act>evo X-TRA 4T SAE 10W-40. BE WARNED: The 10W-40 is rated SG, other weights are not.
How hard is it to start?
As more questions are asked I’ll answer them here