After the restoration: 9600 Mile Service
Thursday, Nov 18, 2004
At about 9200 miles I finally tracked down the pfffftttt, pfffftttt, pfffftttt sound that had been coming from the left hand side of the bike for the last thousand miles or so. I’d looked for it earlier without luck. Maybe the 5 months the bike sat while I was waiting for the licence plate to be restored instilled some patience in me as I looked for the source this time around. In any case, this time I felt puffs of air as I ran my hand between the cylinder and the exhaust. Guess: blown head gasket.
Not really much to see, but I can sure feel the leak. It’s directly below the bottom head screw. Perhaps it contributed to the dirt that can be seen on the head. I know it’d been contributing to the spooge that’d been showing up on the toe of my left boot.
The plug doesn’t look too bad. I pulled the slide out of the carb and then removed the carb body, destroying part of the gasket that stuck to the head. So it goes. The exhaust header nut was removed, but I didn’t pull the exhaust. The head can come off without having to go that far.
I removed the rocker arm assemblies and the head screws that held them. The bottom short screw was then removed, followed by the top screw. Slight pressure on the exhaust header gave me enough clearance to remove the head. Yep, the gasket needs replacing.
These three images show the path of the leak. The head will need some dressing before I stick it back on the bike with a new gasket.
A very fine file followed by some crocus cloth got the head
ready. It went on the bike with a new gasket. Head screws were
torqued in steps in a crossed pattern, 15 ft-lbs, 20 ft-lbs, then 25
ft-lbs. I’ll check the torque again when I do the 9600 mile service.
Valves were adjusted. I found a spare gasket for the carburator in OK condition. I think I’d better order some new ones to have on hand, though. The bike is ready to run. Now back to my spare rear end project.
Saturday, Jan 22, 2005
It took a bit more than 6 months to put 1200 miles on the bike, but much of that time I was waiting for the license plate I’d sent out to be restored. The result was quite nice, but I’m not sure it was worth 5 months of down time.
I came back from some errands after breakfast with the [Groeger[(/saturday/) group with just a few miles less than 9600. After a short wait to let things cool just a bit I drained the oil. This time the magnetic drain plug contained one metal flake. This is better than the last oil change where several flakes were found. The flakes are from a dark metal, not shiny as I’d expect if it was a bearing. I’m not too concerned at this point, but will continue to monitor things.
Next was the rear end. I’d not normally check the rear end at this point but found problems last service. I pulled the fill plug and found the fluid level overflowing. Probably a bad seal between rear end and drive shaft. Next I pulled the drain plug. The magnetic tip on the plug is about the same as it was last time. OK. I’ll pull this rear end apart (again). I was afraid this might happen and have a fresh rear end ready to put on the bike.
I checked the drive shaft oil because of what I found when checking the rear end. As expected, there was less oil than there should be. I’d estimate I pulled about 20 CC from the drive shaft instead of the 100 CC that would normally be there. I’m sure it migrated to the rear end, causing the overflow I saw there.
OK, I’m going to swap rear ends, pull the front swing arm off so I can lube the bearings properly (more on this later), and check the front wheel bearings, in addition to the normal fluid changes that the service schedule calls for. Fun stuff.
Sunday, Jan 23, 2005
The fog finally broke this morning. It’s not too cold working in the garage with the sun providing a little heat. Time to swap out my final drive.
I think Scott showed me this trick. I added a washer as a spacer between the right muffler mounting tab and the frame. It makes the right muffler stick out just slightly, but gives the bike a more balanced look from the rear.
I remove the mufflers and, as I usually do when they are off the bike, gave them a good cleaning. Some 0000 steel wool and Mothers polish got the road grime off. Too bad it’s not that easy to remove the scratches from the time the pipes came off the bike while riding down the freeway.
I pulled the wheel and checked its balance while I had it off the bike. The balancer is the Marc Parnes unit with the addition of a front wheel reducing spacer to center the wheel bearings. I’d checked the rear wheel bearings a few months ago. Of course I cleaned the hubcap and rims while the wheel was off the bike, too.
I removed the mounting nuts and then unscrewed the right hand shock mount and removed the drive. The brake shoes came off along with the brake lever – I’ll use both with the replacement drive. The paper gasket between drive shaft and drive was in excellent shape. It too will be used with the replacement drive.
The drive mounted to the drive shaft, but the shock mounting bolt did not want to start. A bottle jack under the drive helped line up the shock mounting hole. The bolt started much easier this way. The brake pivot and cam were very lightly greased and the brake shoes installed.
The original brake lever is installed along with the rest of the brake linkage, lightly greased. The drive splines were greased when I finished rebuilding the drive. The wheel was put back on the bike. The bike came off the center stand and I bounced it up and down a few times before putting it back on the stand and tightening the pinch bolt.
The last things today were filling the drive shaft and the final drive with gear oil and spinning the wheel while adjusting the rear brake. I left the mufflers off the bike as I want to pull the pipes for for a good cleaning. I’ll get to that and other things in the days to come.
Monday, Jan 24, 2005
Today I’m going to start work on the front end of the bike. The bike has a slight front end shimmy at about 35-40 MPH. Nothing dangerous, but annoying. I checked the back end of the bike – swing arm and rear wheel bearings – a month or so ago. This time I’ll check the front.
I use this wooden fixture to support the bike when jacking it up to get the front wheel off the ground. The side stand is slightly in the way, so I support the bike by the bottom of the engine at the oil pan mounting flange, not the oil pan.
This time I remembered to detach the front brake cable before removing the front wheel. Once the wheel was off the bike I put some jack stands under the front swing arm. This is more stable than the bottle jack. Also, the bottle jack looses pressure over time.
I’ve an old rear axle which is combined with a length of pipe to form my wheel bearing maintenance tool. The pipe goes over the end of the axle to keep the bearing stack aligned. A few hits with a dead blow hammer and the stack is out, reading for cleaning and checking. Of course the bearing retaining nut is first removed.
All of the parts of the stack are removed, cleaned, inspected, lightly oiled, then re-assembled to check the bearing pre-load. The bearings are fine. The pre-load was a slight touch too tight. Adding a shim would make it too loose. I gave the outer spacer a few figure eights on some 600 grit paper and tried again. Perfect.
The stack was well greased then placed back in the hub with the help of a dead blow mallet. I like it when I see that seating the stack in the hub forces a bit of grease out of the top bearing. It means I used enough! The spring, hub cap, thrust bushing, and bearing retainer are installed and the wheel is just about done.
I checked the tire air pressure. It was down about 2 lbs. I brought it up to 28 PSI. Then I put the tire on the balancer. The weights needed to move a bit. After balancing I removed my greasy finger prints with the help of some Mothers wheel polish. The wheel is ready to go back on the bike. But first…
The Koni dampers I put on the bike as part of the restoration are much stiffer than my /2 memories, even at their lightest setting. Others on the /2 mailing list noticed the same thing. I scored a pair of NOS Boge front dampers that feel pretty good. I’m going to put them on the bike and see how it rides. Worst case: I’ll have to put the Koni’s back if the Boge don’t work out.
The first picture is of the replacement dampers. The
second shows the upper shock eye for the left side shock assembly.
Other than the elongation, the silent block is OK, so I will still use it. I’m curious to see of the right side is the same.
I use the Ed Korn shock spring compressor to save knuckles when removing the damper. A side-by-side comparison shows that the Boge has a slightly longer throw. The damper rod is thicker on the Koni. The rubber “donuts” that are hard to get on/off the Koni slide down the rod of the Boge.
The assembly goes together easily. No anti-seize was used. I learned that lesson. The shock assembly and tire are put asside for now. I’ll change dampers in the right hand side later. Then the fender and front swing arm will be removed to check the swing arm bearings.
Tuesday, Jan 25, 2005
I started today’s work by changing the damper in the right side shock assembly. No pictures as the procedure was a duplication of yesterday’s work.
Take a good look at the first picture and see if you can spot the problem. Give up? Without the shock assemblies the two jack stands are doing nothing more than holding the swing arm off the ground. I removed the fender then positioned one of the jack stands under the timing cover where it can support the front of the bike.
I washed the front fender; it’s easy when it’s off the bike. It’s also easier to see the chipped paint on the leading and trailing edges of the fender when clean. I wiped off the areas around the chips with an alcohol swab, waited for the alcohol to evaporate, then applied some touch-up paint. I’m more concerned about rust prevention than looks, but it looks pretty good, too.
The front swing-arm came off pretty easy once I broke it
free. It was torqued way too tight. I pulled the thrust bushing out
of the seal on both sides. The seals are the double lipped variety
which may be one of the reasons I couldn’t get new grease in through the
swing-arm grease fitting. The seals wouldn’t let the old grease out!
I’m checking to make sure I’ve got replacement seals before I pull these. I do need to pull them so I can clean and check the bearings.
The bike looks funny with no front end. Since access is
easy I detailed the down tubes and cleaned out the grime around the
steering damper. There’s no sign of steering bearing play or notching.
I’m hoping that my front end shimmy was caused by the (lack of) front wheel balance.
Wednesday, Jan 26, 2005
First thing this afternoon was to check out the paint on the front fender. I added some more touch-up paint in a few spots then put the fender out of the way to dry.
The only way to check the swing arm bearing is to first remove the seal. I clipped off the soft lip then used Ed Korn’s seal/race removal tool to pull the seal. I ordered replacement seals last night as I didn’t have any of this size socked away. The black grease is from my restoration. The blue/green boat trailer grease that I tried to input via the grease fitting never made it to either of the bearings.
The bearings seemed a bit stiff until I cleaned out all of the old grease using a WD-40 bath, Simple Green and a toothbrush, hot water, another WD-40 bath, then blown dry with compressed air. They are fine. I lightly oiled them and put them in a zip lock bag.
The races have visual marks that show the limited range of movement of the swing arm. The marks can not be felt with the finger-nail test. I’ll not replace the races, this time.
The pipes came off for cleaning. The last remnants of the melted plastic bag that once got caught on the center stand came off with some elbow grease, 0000 steel wool, and Mothers. The crossover tube came out looking almost new.
Before putting the pipes back on I wanted to look at the side stand bolt. It sometimes comes loose. The pipes are in the way so it can not come all the way out, but the other end of the bolt is the stop used to keep the side stand from moving too far forward. I remove the bolt, cleaned things, added some grease where the side stand attaches to its base, then replaced the bolt using some medium thread locker. That should solve the problem.
When putting the side stand back together I noticed the dip stick wasn’t screwed in. I don’t screw it in until there is oil in the bike. May as well do that now. I double checked that I’d torqued the drain plug (I did) then added two quarts of oil. Now the dip stick can be screwed in. That’s it for fluids. I’m not checking the transmission this service.
The pipes and mufflers were put back on the bike with lots of anti-seize. I put everything on loosly, then tighten working from the front of the bike to the rear. By the time all is tight there are lots of anti-sieze colored finger prints over the pipes. A final bit of cleaning/polishing makes it look pretty again.
I’ll wait until the seals arrive before I do anything else. The only thing I have to do is re-install the front end and re-torque the left cylinder head. I’ll probably re-torque both cylinder heads and check and adjust the valves as long as the valve covers are off the bike.
Friday, Jan 28 2005
Jeff came over with some spare swing-arm seals. I’ll use them then give him the ones I ordered when they arrive (probably tomorrow). The races and bearings were greased and put in the swing-arm. The cavity between bearing and seal was filled with grease, then the seals installed. No pictures… I was talking with Jeff, instead of playing with the camera.
The swing-arm was mounted on the bike. I had no problem getting the swing-arm axle to line up. The swing-arm feels good with no play. I installed the fender, shocks and then the front wheel. The jack and jack stand were put away. I’ll re-torque the heads and check the valves this weekend.
Sunday, Jan 30 2005
The left plug looks OK. It’s out of the bike because I need to re-torque the head. It’s been about 400 miles since I replaces the gasket. Close enough. The 6 head screws are backed off a bit then brought to 25 lbs-ft in 5 lbs-ft increments using a cross pattern.
After a re-torque the valves were adjusted. I figured that as long as I was doing the left side I may as well do the right side, too. The head screws on the exhaust side of the right are tight. This is one of the signs of a butterhead according to Duane’s page on /2 cylinder heads. I set the torque as best I could then adjusted the valves. I think finding a replacement head is going to move up my priority list.
The bike is back together and ready to ride. I should probably check the timing. I’ll do that with a timing light next time I start the bike. The front brake may need a slight adjustment, too.