Re: oilheads-digest V1 #83

["Tom Brown" <tbrown@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Clive:

You never cease to amaze me!  Perhaps it's your far-away location, but you
always seem to have a different take on things.

>I have a 12mm dowl around 290mm long (about 11.5"), nicely smoothed, which
I
> place into the LH spark plug hole.  The end sticking out is notched to
keep
> a piece of elastic from slipping off and the other ends of the elastic
> (which have old bungee hooks on them) are simply hooked onto cylinder fins
> fore and aft.


I use a long pencil, eraser end into the cylinder.  Or a long screwdriver,
carefully used, which will not hurt the piston.   I suppose if you've gone
to all this trouble, no harm done, but what's the point?

>
> It is really easy and accurate to find TDC by looking at the dowl while
> turning the back wheel in top gear.  Then just adjust the side with the
> loose valve rockers.  All fairings stay put on the RT for this.

Make sure you're turning the wheel forward for your last adjustment, so the
timing chains are tensioned the right way.


> I have noted, but not used, the "two feeler" method.  I can see that the
> more worn the rocker bearing are that this method would be more accurate.
I
> believe the "one feeler" method is accurate enough for me at this time :|
> (and I already find juggling one feeler gauge, an allen key and a 10mm all
> together in enough for my dexterity(sp?))

This holds even for a brand new bike!   Try it and you'll never go back to
using one feeler again.

GT and OR:

> > > I found the most disagreeable part of adjusting the valves was dealing
> > > with the little rubber timing hole plug. I found a replacement which
> > > has worked well for me:
> > > <http://members.macconnect.com/users/k/karl/bmwTimingPlug.html>
> >
> >
> > i found that you could tell when you were at the correct position for
the
> > adjustment by simply watching the valves as you rotated the rear tire.
i
> > never found a need to use the inspection hole with its disappearing
rubber
> > plug :))


The exact position, to the nearest .001", isn't critical anyway.  There's
enough room on the cam in either direction for several degrees to still get
a good adjustment.   This timing mark thing is really overkill.   Likewise
taking the front cover off so you can use your special wrench to turn the
engine when there's a perfectly good rear wheel to turn.   I like to poke
something in the plug hole just to verify that I'm close to TDC.  You can
look at the valves and the cams and figure it out.  I take the plugs out
because it's easier to turn the engine.

Taking off the front cover has the advantage of allowing inspection of the
alternator belt, but the new ones seldom need any attention.   I'll look at
mine when the bike or belt is new and again at the first 6,000.  After that,
if it hasn't moved, it's probably not going to.

But you guys who are just using one feeler and doing this adjustment in a
hurry are missing out on one of the best benefits of doing this yourself.
You can make your bike run much smoother and better with a truly accurate
valve adjustment, using 4 feelers and being very consistent, followed by a
good throttle body synch.   These things are critical to getting your bike
running FINE.   This is why you do it instead of the dealer.

By the way, the procedure outlined in the GS website is right on and
hilarious.    Terrific stuff and a joy to read.
http:\\www.advrider.com/Wisdom/Wisdom.html   Only thing is, it worked
yesterday and today, I get a server error...and I bookmarked the thing, so
no typing errors.  Maybe they're updating the server?

- -TB


> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:21:38 -0600
> From: "Michael D. Ash" <redlegduke@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: valve adjustment
>
> Chuck,
>
> You're there dude.  Feel confident that the techniques that were
successfull
> on your airhead will lead you to success on your oilhead.  Don't
> over-intellectualize it with all the advice.  Get your tools out, and get
in
> there.
>
> Duke
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software  optimizes dial-up to the
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:51:34 -0500
> From: "John Dancoe" <jdan@xxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
>
> Gary wrote:
> >"Time required: Twice as much. Four valves instead of two per cylinder.
> ;-)"
> >
> To which Clive responded:
> >I have found that, often, no adjustment is necessary so time may be the
> same
> >
>
> I second Clive. The oilhead retains adjustment FAR better than my airheads
> ever did. But even if you have to make a change, I find the oilhead
> adjusters are much easier to get right on the first try, so that even if
> you have to adjust every one, it takes no more time than doing half as
many
> on an airhead. And yes, much more pleasant having rocker covers with
> outward-facing allen-head bolts vs. small nuts wedged between cooling fins
> and exhaust header nuts...I'd drop at least one into the oil pan, every
> time, guaranteed.
>
> At any rate, yes, if you can do an airhead you can do an oilhead, no
sweat.
>
> John Dancoe '93 R11RS
>
> p.s. The one thing I do miss is after doing my airhead valves I'd run the
> engine with the covers off and verify good oil flow over the valves (plus
> it was just way cool to watch). Tried that on the oilhead, ONCE...the cam
> chain slung oil halfway acrosss the garage...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:57:19 -0500
> From: "beemerphile1" <beemerphile1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Trailer from Canada
>
> I need advise, I have the opportunity to buy a Bushtec trailer which is in
> British Columbia, Canada.  It is a long way from Tallmadge, Ohio where I
> live.
>
> Any suggestions on shipping?
>
> Does anyone happen to be going that way?
>
> Does anyone have information or tips on dealing with customs?  Since it
was
> built in the USA, I cannot imagine it should be too much of a problem.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tim Bard
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oilheads-digest V1 #83
> *****************************

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