Re: Cylinder Head Torque

["william kenney" <tnt720@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2004 10:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Pieter de Koninck <pieter_de_k@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Oilhead cylinder torque
>
> I need to retorque one of the cylinder heads on my 99 R1100R. I read
> the procedure in the shop manual, but just to make sure I'll ask you guys.

These gaskets are not meant to be retorqued. If you are sure the leak is
coming from the head or the base gasket, I would try retorquing , but my
feeling is that the leak is coming from somewhere else (valve cover or the
donut from the spark plug hole.....very common by the way).
If it is the head gasket, you probably need a new one......retorquing might
work for a bit but is not a long term repair.
I am not sure on the 99's but previous to that there were a few
modifications to the oilhead head gaskets. Maybe yours is one of the older
style that was prone to leakage.

>
> It looks like you do all of the four-step torquing procedure one bolt
> at a time. That is: loosen, torque, angular torque and re-torque all on a
> single bolt before moving to the next. Correct?

The whole idea of torqueing a gasket is to seat it evenly.
You would be defeating the purpose if you tightened one bolt at a time.
Proper way would be to loosen all the bolts and start from scratch and
torque the bolts in steps as suggested.

>
> Should I do both cylinders just for good measure (only one was replaced)?

I would leave the other side undisturbed if it is not leaking.
I am not sure of the actual torque after the second 90degree crank on these
bolts (studs) but it is a LOT!
I have heard others on this list that have stripped the studs out of the
engine case...so you might want to leave well enough alone.


Bill Kenney
Foster,RI
96R1100RS

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