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Retorquing heads etc.



Guys:

Mark has it right.   You don't want to loosen all the bolts at once if
you're re-torquing.   That would be very bad, allowing oil to escape from
the passages etc.  Just one bolt at a time.

For replacing a head that's been removed, you have to use a new gasket and
follow the 90 degree/90 degree procedure.   I see no reason for an angle
gage.  Put the wrench at 12 oclock and go to 3.  Done deal.

- -TB


>From: Marco S Hyman <marc@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Oilhead cylinder torque

>Commenting on various messages...

 >> This snippet below indicates to me that we should be torquing to 20 Nm
and
 >> doing 1 pass over all of the nuts turning 90 degs. and a second pass
over
 > >all of the nuts turning another 90 degrees.  That is different from
torquing

>That's the procedure when installing a head.  The procedure is different
>for retorquing.  To retorque you back off one nut, torque to 20 Nm,
>add 180 degrees, then procede to the next nut in a cross-wise pattern.

 >> These gaskets are not meant to be retorqued. If you are sure the leak is

>If the head has been removed, yes... replace the gasket.   However
>retorquing is required about 600 M (1000 Km) after installing a head
>and is part of the 600 Mile/1000 Km service on a new bike (third item
>on the BMW official checkoff sheet).

>// marc

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End of oilheads-digest V1 #250
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