Crossover Tube

["Tom Brown" <tbrown@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ben:

I've done cannisterectomies before.  Removing the charcoal cannister on the
back of the bike.   You can do it by removing the tubing completely and
capping the vacuum outlets on the throttle bodies or you can leave the rubber
tubing in and change the routing so it simply connects the two sides.    This
is the way I do it now because it's easier to do and easier to put back.
Also, you don't need to be concerned about plastic caps falling off.  The
rubber tubing really stays on.   I've not noticed a big difference in
performance or smoothness by connecting the two sides or mearly capping them
off.

The stock system connects the two sides through the vacuum tubes as well.

If you read the mounds of information available on these subjects, you'll get
a much better idea what does what.    Seems like your trying to reinvent the
wheel here.

Best,

- -TB

Now with carbs, makes sense to me to have the largest feasible cross-over
pipe between the carbs as that helps average the two, correcting what
synching fails to do. Some wise people do not share this view, but you can
see the tubes on a lot of Japanese bikes with closely adjacent carbs, and my
previous machines. The flow capacity of even a 1/8 inch pipe to influence
balance is commensurate with the butterfly opening at idle and beyond into
the rather small openings used for surge-ridden highway cruising.

So, has anybody tried joining by tubing the test ports on the TBs?

Cheers.

Ben

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