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RE: head torque+rocker arm end play

After re-torquing my head in a vain attempt to stop seepage, and then when I
replaced the gasket (which did solve the seepage), I came away a bit nervous
about the angle method for much the same reasons as others have expressed. My
biggest fear by far was of ripping the studs out of the case. I'd rather have
the gasket leak than deal with that problem.

After  replacing the gasket I decided to check the torques by putting my
torque wrench on the nuts and gradually "working up" to the click. Might have
been a crude method but it was gratifying to find they were all fairly close
to each other, and had a realistic value compared to the torque spec for an

I forget what that "minimum" or "average" torque reading turned out to be (I
wrote it in my manual; 37 ft-lb sounds familiar), but certainly in the future
I'll use the torque wrench in combination with degree wheel to set these nuts.
This is a "fail safe" approach: if I am only up to 90+30 degrees and my wrench
clicks (because, for example, I got the initial set wrong), I can stop
cranking before I pull the stud out of the case. I can then loosen the nut and
start again, or look for a root cause other than "starting point".

John D


End of oilheads-digest V2 #88