Final Drive & Paralever Bearings

["Gary Bechtold" <tyrohustler@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Three really good answers (all all in agreement) - thanks much.

Gary Bechtold
'94 R1100RS

> Get a brass or Stainless steel brush ( like a  toothbrush) at the
hardware 
> store. Carefully trim the bristles so that the brush  will fit within the 
> diameter of the threads WITHOUT bending the bristles over  (if they bend
they will 
> be useless). Heat the part around the thread, and while  it is hot, brush
out 
> the old Loctite. Then dip the brush in some acetone (or  fingernail
polish 
> remover-same thing) and carefully clean out the remaining  bits. It asi
VERY 
> important to totally clean it out. A small hard bit ot Loctite  will
DESTROY the 
> fine threads in the aluminum if left in there. The only time I  EVER let 
> somebody else work on any motorcycle I ever owned, they destroyed my 
swingarm bu 
> trying to force the paralever pivot pin in through the hard  Loctite.
>
> Tom Cutter
> Yardley, PA
> "What's the point of being stupid  if you're not going to show it?"
> Rubber Chicken Racing Garage Apparel is  HERE! See it all at:
> http://www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com  
>

> In the past I used soft wire-wheels, brass wheels, to clean the bolts and
Dermal small wire-wheels to clean internal thread.  If the internal thread
diameter is too small for wire-wheels then I used taps. It is better to use
the #1 tap of a "set-of-tap" not to oversize the existing thread.
> Bob Silas
> Montreal
>  
> Gary,
>    I've had really good results by heating the threads with a torch and
> then using a very small spring hook or scribe to scrape the old Loctite
> out.  You want to get ALL of the old stuff out before you try to
re-assemble
> the pivot pins.  Your torque readings will be WAY off if you don't.
>
> HTH,
> Mick
> Tucson

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