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Re: R1100S questions

Just a note to correct one problem with Steve's post.  There is no 
knock sensor in the 1100 or 1150 motors.  The first BMW bike with knock 
sensor is the 1200GS.

These motors run well on mid grade 89 R+M/2 gas.  Regular is iffy, 
particularly in hot weather.  Never had a problem with mid grade.

My own recommendation for air pressure would be 38/42 on the street.  
The high front pressure is for rim protection.  On the track, you can 
run lower numbers as the tires get hotter there.

Battery: If you can get an odyessey battery, they are tops.  Everyone I 
know who has had a Westco has given up on it.

Bob Hadden '05R12GS, '62R27

On Sep 25, 2005, at 5:56 PM, Steve Makohin wrote:

> Hello Dave,
>> I just purchased a lovely 99 R1100S, but  without a
>> Riders Manual.  So I've a couple of questions.
> Contact your BMW dealer and get one. It's called "Rider's Manual 
> R1100S".
>   Order No. 01 41 7 651 487
> The manual includes a safety checklist, and full user usage info. 
> Highly recommended for any vehicle.
>> On the centerstand, should the oil level be in the middle
>> of the sight glass?
> You have just missed a lengthy thread on the Big List about this. 
> According to the book:
> [ Make sure the oil and your bike are thoroughly warmed up first. ]
> o Check engine oil level after the engine has been stopped
>   for 10 minutes.
> o Make sure that the motorcycle is upright
> o Check the oil level in the sight glass:
>    MAX - Top edge of ring
>    MIN - Bottom edge of ring
> The space between the marks represents approx 0.5 liters (0.88 
> imperial pints). [ When you add oil, add a bit at a time and give it 
> time to settle in the oil pan (and sight glass). Be careful not to 
> overfill.]
> Here is the stuff that the user manual does not tell you.
> o The sight glass gives you an acceptable relative reading, but
>   it is not exact.
> o Inaccuracies develop due to lots of places where the oil can
>   pool and collect in the engine, such as the oil filter.
> o Some folks swear that if you let your bike rest on the side-
>   stand for a few minutes first, that will drain the oil from the
>   oil cooler to the oil pan. Put it on the center stand and let it
>   rest for 10 minutes, and then take a reading.
> o My rule of thumb is to not fill above "1/4 low", and top up
>   no later than "3/4 low". This easily compensates for
>   inaccuracies due to oil pooling and collecting in places other
>   than the oil pan.
> o Over-filling will dump the excess into the air filter box. This
>   is something you want to avoid.
>> Am I correct the engine wants 93 octane gas?
> According to The Writ Of Holy Wisdom (AKA "The Book"), use only 
> unleaded super (premium) grade fuel with a minimum octane number of 95 
> (RON) or 85 (MON). The bike is quipped with a knock sensor that will 
> compensate for lower quality fuel, but why tempt fate, eh?
>> What is the proper tire pressures for a 200 lb rider?  What is the 
>> proper pressure for two-up riding?
> I spent most of my life on my R1100S at around 200 to 215 lbs. 
> According to The Book, cold tire pressure:
>  Solo:  31.9 psi front / 36.3 PSI rear (2.2 bar / 2.5 bar)
>  Pillion:  36.3 / 36.2 (2.5 / 2.7)
>  Pillion + Luggage: 36.3 / 42.1 (2.5 / 2.9)
> Your tires, and the degree of your individual anal-retentiveness will 
> determine how much you'll want stray from these numbers. I've put a 
> knee down on Michelin Sports at the above pressures, and the bike was 
> fine. Mind you, I am not a leader of the pack at the track.
>> Yesterday morning on the way bringing it down I had my battery die
>> in a motel parking lot  [weak original battery + operator error -
>> see: lack of riders manual] 350 miles from home and 100+ plus
>> miles from the nearest dealership.  Thank the Lord that it did come
>> with the Technical Manual, and the tool kit had the proper allen
>> wrenches to get the fairings, air duct etc, off.  Ugly way to start
>> getting to know the bike, tho.  I've been following rhe charger
>> thread closely.   I'm getting the best possible battery as a
>> replacement *and* a trickle charger.  I do *not* want to have
>> do that again.
> Sorry to hear about your battery adventure, and that you were forced 
> to learn about the S's battery location, the hard way. Its location is 
> consistent with never needing to access it :-)
> Preventive maintenance will go a long way for battery longevity. I 
> can't say enough about getting a genuine Battery Tender, and *always* 
> putting your bike on it when you're not riding. Four years of strong 
> cranking with no signs of weakness on an original BMW battery says 
> something to me. My own stupidity and the resulting crash put an end 
> to my long-term battery test.
> -Steve