Feeler gauges and valve lash; A/F gauge; R1100S mods

[Ben Barkow <dr.ben@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thought I'd add some data points here....

I'm pretty sure (but not certain) that my usual winter valve lash check  
at a cool 30F isn't disrupted due to temperature expansion. Haven't  
heard any really authoritative views one way or the other.

Frankly, on a 16,000 mile R1100S engine, I don't find any particular  
difference in lash measurements using a pair of feeler gauges. Maybe my  
fingers are too cold or the needle bearings in the rocker-arm still  
tight. Sure complicates matters to use two gauges and all that duct  
tape to hold one in place.

Yes, lash opens slightly, maybe a thou in 6,000 miles. Favoring grunt,  
I follow the Lentini advice of opening intake and exhaust lash. At 10  
and 14, my elderly ears (and with Leo Vince exh), my sleep still isn't  
disturbed by clatter. Of course, I keep track of rocker-arm end play  
which is still within spec (2-12 thou).

Past few days, I've been riding around with an A/F meter (3 digit DVM  
style) tapped into the O2 sensor, Very, very interesting. While the  
Techlusion 1031 works with the sensor disconnected from the ECU, I've  
reconnected (except for the signal wire) in order to power the sensor  
and the meter. All you have to due is cut a hole in the loose sheathe  
and tap into the black wire. Simple as that. (You might want to add a  
ferrite bead to suppress RF.)


Dunno about other bikes, but the R1100S has a giant-sized crossover  
pipe up front. But in that big pipe is a baffle with a small (1 cm)  
hole. Go figure. Opening the hole to say 7/8 inch adds oomph just south  
of 4000 rpm, a place where it is dearly valuable on that machine, at  
least based on the tush-dyno. Given the likely role of that baffle,  
there may be some loss of power around 150 mph. I'll check that out  
real soon.

I ground off 12% of the spring rate from my front spring (R1100S are  
considered a bit harsh). Clear, if modest, reduction in harshness on  
city streets but minor increase in brake dive. If this isn't just the  
usual favorable DIY self-evaluation, it would be a worthwhile benefit  
and takes maybe 1/2 hr to grind and 10 minutes to spray (and four hours  
to go to the race shop to have the spring measured before and after).

Turns out my local electronics dealer has mercury bulb switches, high  
intensity LEDs ($1), and 720 ohm resistors. Have a guess? Right!  
Deceleration activated brake lights wired to the always-on license  
plate circuit.

Cheers.

Ben                                                                      
                                               
Ben Barkow, Toronto... 40 seasons on Beemers, 45 as a biker

1961 R69s/rod, 1967-1999... really sup'ed up and fast

1984 R80RT/rod, 1998-2005  5 extra peak ponies in a wider flatter power  
band,
   much modified 2-into-1 exhaust, CR 9.5, Keihin PJ 34mm oval carbs,
   Uni filter, dual-rate springs with cartridge emulators, BT45/S11,  
Saeng fairing

1999 R1100S, 2004- Leo Vince exh, JetHot coatings, Techlusion 1031,
   large sticky foam filter, TB balance tube, debaffled exh xover, 12%  
reduced front spring, 26 inch windscreen, air horns, Diablo Stratas

and.... 1960 Jaguar MkII (SUs, CDI), 1964 Alfa Romeo GTV (mech. FI),
   1968 Lotus Elan Plus 2 (Webbers), 1987 Maserati 425 Biturbo (Webber)

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