[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Dash Switch n' More


Are you going to use a relay? If so, and I'd recommend that for any sort of auxiliary lights, you won't need a lot of amperage in the switch.

I bought a very cool dash switch at Radio Shack. It's a flat black rocker switch. Looks very stock and cost about $3. You need to find a piece of plastic with nothing behind it on the dash and drill about a 1/2" diameter hole, thread the nut then the washer with the two wires from the back side of the dash pull your wires up through the hole, solder the wire ends to the switch, slide this dog in the hole and screw the nut and washer on the back.

I used one for extra lights on my '99 R1100RT. I removed the lights when I sold that bike and just left the switch on. It looked so stock, the dealer didn't even notice. I used the same model switch on my R1200RT to turn my built-in radar detector setup on and off. Both of these installs have worked in rain and cold and hot sun without any problems. If it break, I can just run down to Radio Shack and replace them....but they don't seem to break!

I don't know the model number, but it's plain, flat black plastic with a white dot for the "on" position. Just go to the back of the store where the drawers of electonic parts are and ask to look at their switches. There's only one like this. The others are metal. This one is black plastic and the face is almost round. It rocks like the ABS switch you're considering, but it's much smaller and works slicker.

FYI to anyone with a 1200 RT:

I mounted my "radar switch" on the cover plate where my radio controls would have gone had I ordered the radio. Power comes from the back of the auxiliary plug and all the wires unplug so I can remove the left outer fender easily. I put a Valentine One up in the front cowl to the left of the headlight housing by suspending it under the metal subframe inside there with zip-ties.

I have a remote display, remote sound unit and a bluetooth sender (for Legal Speeding helmet LED) all in-line with the detector. All turn on and shut off with this switch. If I get near a shopping center or squad car, I can just turn the thing off so it's not blinking in my eyes all the time. A quick off-on will test the LED as the unit powers up. If I go to Canada or Virginia, I just turn off the switch. It shuts down everything, unlike some remote detectors where the power switch only shuts off the display but the superhet unit keeps generating microwaves for the police to catch. They will pull the thing right out of your car/bike and keep it!

The display is velcroed to the underside of the dash left-front. It's not the perfect location. I wanted to mount it on the underside of an accessory shelf, but the one they make for the 1200RT blocks half the dash instruments. I sent it back. This location works pretty well. When I get an alert, I have to peek forward over the left handlebar to see the display, but I'm used to it now. This way it's out of plain sight for the states where they're illegal.

The only problems I've had with the setup is that the Legal Speeding sender really doesn't like to get wet. I've replaced two of them. Finally, I asked the guy how to get around this. He told me to plug the phone wires in and then cover the thing in RTV silicone sealer. I did that and haven't had a problem since.

All the power wires are soldered to plugs that can be pulled apart. Excess telephone type wire is bundled and zip-tied to the bike. You need to remove the windscreen and the top fairing piece just under the windscreen for access to the space where the detector goes. You need to remove the left outer fairing piece for access to the auxiliary power plug. The switch and the V-1 built-in power unit etc go in this outer fender. Then one phone wire runs to the chain of components.

I usually do my own service on the bike, but when I do take it in for something requiring some tear-down, I'll unhook all this before they get it and re-install when I pick it up. I don't remove anything, just unhook the phone wire that goes from the outside fender to the dash components and the power wires. 10 minute job.

Once you get the pieces off the bike, this will all come together for you. Put a strong piece of velcro on the left underside of the center dash and stick the displays there.

Everything here is reversable. The only hole is the one for the switch and that's in a cheap cover plate that can be replaced. (It looks so good, I wouldn't replace it anyway) I put an extra in-line fuse in the circuit just for an extra indicator if there's a problem.

The auxiliary plug has a 10 amp capacity, way more than is needed for this stuff. I also plug my iPod charger into this plug (from the outside, the normal way). There's still plenty of capacity left.

Heated clothing goes to a dual control thermostat mounted in front of the seat with velcro. It's wired with an in-line fused wire direct to the battery. I unplug the themostat during warm months and store it. The power wire has a plastic plug to keep out the elements, so it stays on all year. Doesn't take much space under the seat.


I'm looking for a dash fog light switch for my '00 R11R so I can mount some
auxiliary lights. I'm not sure if that was an option on the bike, but I have
an extra switch site where the

ABS switch would have been. I'm hoping that a fog light switch from an RT
would fit. I think an ABS switch would also work but I would have to black
out the ABS logo.  The part number for the ABS is 61 31 1 459 700, and the
part number for the fog light switch is 61 31 2 306 070. I think the main
difference is that the fog light switch has a ground. If you have one you
would like to sell please ping me off-list.