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- From: "Tom Brown" <tbrown@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 05:26:13 -0500
- Subject: Oil Consumption
The consumption you mention before the change of rings is excessive. The
dealer did the right thing by changing it. I've never heard of a dealer
doing this before regardless of oil consumption amount.
The oil consumption now seems pretty normal, especially for right after a
tear-down like this.
This is an air-cooled engine. They change temp more than water cooled
engines and most of them use some oil, especially after a hard riding. A
lot of warm-ups and cool-downs will also increase consumption for the amount
of miles. Steady interstate riding is probably easiest on consumption.
Guys who ride all around the country on their bikes often say they have high
miles and no consumption. Tear around the Rockies or the Blue Ridge at
warp speed and your Oilhead will use some oil.
>Any ideas on what is happening? Is it still the rings or is there other
reasons for oil consumption.
Expansion and contraction, long stroke on this engine and fairly high
compression all combine with the air cooling to create this. I think it
will get better after the new rings, but it takes time.
>I could just change the oil at 1500 miles, but that seems excessive.
That is excessive. 5 or 6 K is more like it.
>Is there any oil that breaks down slower than the BMW 20-50?
The oil isn't breaking down. It's leaking through the valve seals and
rings. Once the bike is broken in and oil consumption slows (It probably
won't stop.) change to synthetic or partial synthetic. It stays the same
viscosity in hot weather. That will help. It also will start better in
cold weather. DO NOT change to synthetic until after at least 10K miles.
Oil consumption should go down by then.
>I usually have the dealer change the oil.If I change it myself, what torque
should I tighten the drain plug to so not to strip it?
I tighten enough to compress the aluminum crush washer all around the
circumference. That's enough. I've never had a leak or a loose plug doing
that. I torqued to factor spec once. I thought is was excessive. I think
they're being safe, but you have to weigh in the risk of mucking up aluminum
threads over time. In a pinch, I can re-use the crush washer using my
torque. The factory torque will really squash the crush washer and you'll
need a new one every time. I use a new one every time as a rule, but there
have been times on the road where they weren't available. My philosophy
totally. It works for me. I give no warranty on free advice.
>How do I ensure all the oil is out of the oil cooler?
Good question! The procedure you're using is good.usually. If you find
that the oil level is freakishly low one time, ignore it. Next time, you'll
probably get the right reading. Wish I had a fool-proof answer, but I just
went through an overfill episode with my 1200RT and I've been doing this for
years. I ended up draining a pint of oil out of the thing. No damage.
>Should I drain the oil out of the filter or isn't much in it?
You should change the filter when you change the oil. Drain the filter into
the oil pan. Figure out a way you can set it upside down draining. The oil
needs to be out before you throw it away. Recycle the oil at a good local
gas station or an EPA facility. I use plastic water jugs to hold my used
oil. Dannon water makes great wide mouth bottles out of good plastic.
Most window washer fluid bottles work well too.
Any suggestions or comments would be helpful. I've never had a vehicle that
consumed oil like this and I'm getting discouraged.