RE: ABS Failure

[paul kalichman <pkalichman@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tom,

As I understood, the RS are RT models had different ABS systems. The RT is
fully integrated, while the RS is partial.
Activating the rear brake on the RS, does not operate the front brakes at all.
The modulators for the
RT and RS have different part numbers.  When I first purchased the bike, I did
find the brakes sensitive Now
after a couple of years I am used to them.

Unfortunately the BMW dealers in my area are large car dealerships with a
small
side business selling bikes.  The service advisors I have to speak with can
recognize a motorcycle because
it has two wheels,  buts that the extend of their knowledge.  When I brought
the bike in for repair, they recorded
the fault codes, ran the IABS pressure checks (passed), cleared the fault
codes, and test rode.  The fault did
not return.  (what a surprise that is! I told them it was intermittent!)  When
I picked up the bike, the advisor
suggested that since they reset the fault codes, perhaps the problem will not
come back!  Great advice eh!
So as you can see, if I decide to repair the bike with non ABS brakes, (and
disable the modulator) I will
have to find all the right part numbers myself.  The guys who run the parts
department won't be much
help either.  Parts are just numbers to them. They don't have any idea where
any of them go on the bike.

regards, paul



> From: tbrown@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: oilheads@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: ABS Failure>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:17:17 -0500> > Paul:> > I had an 1150 RT with the
same system you have on your RS. It didn't give> me any trouble, but then
again, I didn't hit a driveshaft. > > The first thing I'd try is completely
draining and re-bleeding the whole> system just to eliminate the possibility
that air is in the servo side of> the system. Read up on this before you try
it. It's tricky. You may want> a qualified dealer to do it who has the BMW
computer equipment. > > The brakes were the worst thing about this beautiful
bike they weren't> really bad, but neither were they exactly rider friendly.
When the engine> was on, the brakes were too sensitive making it a real
challenge to make> smooth stops. When the engine was off, like pushing it
around the garage,> it was very hard to get any braking power. If I were
spending the kind of> money you're considering to fix them, I'd definitely
look into either> upgrading to a newer ABS Servo system or simply putting a
good non-ABS> system together for the bike. > > The fact that your bike was in
an accident will affect the resale price> anyway. I don't think you'll be out
much money in the long run to change the> system. > > The later hex-head
system is less touchy and has more non-servo power when> the engine is off. >
> There are list members who've dumped their ABS simply because they didn't>
like the pregnant pause that happens when you hit a bump with the brakes on.>
Perhaps one of them can give you guidance. > > The newer '07 bikes have an
even better and simpler system. It might be> good to check the parts books
with a creative dealer and see what> alternatives you have. If I were spending
4 digits on a repair, I'd like to> get an improvement, but perhaps you can get
the job done cheaper by just> bypassing the ABS and servo systems altogether.
> > -TB> > > Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 06:37:26 +0000> From: paul kalichman
<pkalichman@xxxxxxxxxxx>> Subject: Integral ABS module failure> > Folks,> > I
have been lurking on the list for the last 2 years since I picked up an 02>
R1150RS. Not much to say or add> all that time so I just keep quiet. I really
enjoy the bike, and I find it> really refreshing after 23 years of riding an>
R80RT. That being said, I have some drama to share, and a query to ask at>
the> end.> > This June I had a little encounter with a object lying in the
middle of a 4> lane divided highway I happened to be riding.> In spite of my
30 years riding experience, (and the fact that I know better)> I> still
managed to fixate on the object,> and consequently ran right over it, at
perhaps 120KPH! The impact was quite> severe, as the object in question was>
the driveshaft that connects the two rear axles of a dump truck. Rather>
solid> and heavy. Amazingly the bike went right over> it, but it did result in
an exciting tank slapper. I managed to keep the> bike> upright and aimed her
over to the shoulder.> Once I was able to pry my fingers off the grips and
dismount the bike, I> noticed the side stand had grown longer as> it couldn't
be fully extended. With difficulty, I hauled her up on the> center> stand,
which had also grown longer.> Slowly I regained my senses and it dawned on me
that the stands were not> longer, but the bike was in fact> lower as I now had
two flat tires. Indeed, running over a driveshaft at> highway speeds will
result in badly bent rims,> flat tires, and at least one bent brake rotor and
damaged caliper.> Fortunately this was all covered by my insurance,> to the
tune of $5700 Canadian dollars.> > Now three weeks later I am in Montana
heading to Glacier National park after> the MOA rally. I attempt to slow down>
for a RH turn at an intersection, nothing happens! No brakes! I squeeze>
harder. Next thing I know, and I am doing a> stoppie and the rear wheel is off
the ground. I see the warning lamp on, and> the ABS flashing at 4 hertz.> (At
least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode) I quickly> deduce
this isn't looking too good.> Not one to let a minor inconvenience like
intermittent malfunctioning brakes> to end a good trip, I continue> for a few
more days, until I have to head home. During the 2000 mile trip> home to
Toronto, I note the following> symptoms. Sometimes I have only residual
braking in the rear, but power to> the> front. Other times only> residual
braking in the front, but power to the rear. Other times no power> to> either
front or rear.> Last but not least, but most of the time, full power to both,
but warning> light on and ABS lamp flashing.> In all cases the failure only
happens when I use the brakes, never at start> up. (and never consistently)>
Eventually I do take the bike over to my local BMW dealer. Fault codes>
suggest> a faulty iABS modulator.> Repair estimate from BMW Canada, $500
labour and $3600 for the modulator!> (that's not a typo)> Needless to say,
with a little googleling one soon finds the same part is> approximately $2000>
in the US. Now I am quite sure BMW Canada has a very good reason for>
charging> $1500 more than their> counterparts in the US. Perhaps the Canadian
version comes with a life time> warranty? Maybe its> gold plated? (I am
positive if customer service ever returns the three> calls> I made last week,
I will> find out!)> > But until then I have been thinking of plan B.> > Plan
B: I order the modulator from the US and install it myself.> (I like plan B
because I am one of those cheap BMW self maintainers)> > So the question I
have been unable to resolve even after searching and> reading> every iABS
related> thread on the planet.> > Is the ABS modulator a plug and play unit
right out of the box? (of course> after filling and bleeding!)> The current
part number 34517685790, is listed for the RS, GS and R models.> Is there
some> special set up or adjustment that only a BMW dealer can perform with
their> diagnostic computer?> > I suspect the unit is in fact plug and play,
and the computer is used only> to> test and record> results. But I have no way
to verify this, and I do not want to order a part> I> cannot> install! Does
anyone on this list know the answer?> > Hope I haven't bored everyone with my
long drivel.> > regards, paul>
_________________________________________________________________> >
------------------------------> > End of oilheads-digest V4 #201>
******************************> > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware
Doctor (5.5.1.322)> Database version: 5.10520e>
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/
_________________________________________________________________