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Re: Ohlins shocks ... nightmare!



Doug,  It was easy for me to compress the spring cuz I have a 55 ton 
shop press in my garage.  Lacking that, you would need to buy a spring 
compressor tool.  As I recall, the remote adjuster is the issue for why 
you need to compress the spring to get things out of the way.  Then, it 
was easy to move the threaded adjusters.

If you turned three turns on the preload, and it didn't make a major 
change for you, I think the spring is too soft.  Maybe it has lost its' 
tension (thus is defective), or maybe it was selected wrong to begin 
with.  But then you would have had this sag complaint from day one.

My bro takes issue with the rear spring for a slightly different 
reason.  If he sets it up for one up, with the preload knob all the way 
loose, he does not get enough boost via the knob for two up riding.  
This is s spring rate issue, not preload, but I do feel that the 
adjusting knob system is of limited value as it is sold on this shock.

I had a Yamaha with a dual rate rear spring.  You could flip a lever to 
lock out the small light spring which worked very well for boosting 
rear lift for two up riding.  Come to think of it, the Yamaha had 
better suspension design all around than the Beemer.  Except for the 
telelever bit (which I really like).

Bob Hadden '98RS

On Apr 21, 2004, at 2:18 PM, <ABSDoug2@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 	I thought of that. But, if you don't have to compress the front
> spring, why would the back on have to be compressed. And how DO
> YOU compress the spring. Hell if I can go another 10K without
> having to send them in, that is all I'm looking for.
> 	I did get three turns and even with the remote pre-load the
> magic #'s don't seem to appear.
> 	Thanks for the feedback!

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