Re: Oilhead cylinder torque

[Robert Silas <robert.silas@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 Required 90 deg. yes, but you don't need an angle torque gadget for that. If I remember well with the "K" bikes pre-torque of 37 deg., then final torque of 67 deg. follows.
R. Silas
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Marco S Hyman 
  To: oilheads@xxxxxxxxx 
  Cc: Pieter de Koninck 
  Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2004 6:31 PM
  Subject: Re: Oilhead cylinder torque


  Pieter de Koninck writes:
   > I am sending this to the Tech list as well as the Oilheads list.

  Sending to the oilheads list instead of the oilheads list owner will
  get things posted, faster :-)

   > It looks like you do all of the four-step torquing procedure one bolt 
   > at a time. That is: loosen, torque, angular torque and re-torque all on a 
   > single bolt before moving to the next. Correct?

  Depends.  If the head has been removed the repair manual says:

  1. Tighten cylinder head nuts crosswise
  1.1 Tighten all nuts to 20 Nm
  1.2 Tighten all nuts to correct angle 90 degress
  1.3 Tighten all nuts to correct angle 90 degress
          2. M10 screw 40 Nm
  3. M6 screw 9 Nm

  In otherwords *not* one at a time.   The procedure to "take up slack
  after 1000 Km" has you doing one nut at a time in a crosswise pattern
  (20 Nm plus 180 degrees) followed by the M10 screw.

   > Should I do both cylinders just for good measure (only one was replaced)?

  I wouldn't bother.
   > 
   > The other question is a source for an angle gauge. Sears? Pep Boys (or 
   > its ilk)? More specialized--do I need to hunt down the Snap-On truck?

  Do you really need an angle gauge for 90 and 180 degrees?

  // marc

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