Re: valve adjustment

["Kevin Kerr" <chromed@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

No need to remove the tupperware on a R1100RT to do valve adjustment.

Just get yourself a long-handled screwdriver and a magic marker of some 
sort. Remove spark plugs as per usual and turn engine using the back wheel 
after placing transmission into 5th. Slowly turn the engine, keeping the 
screwdriver gently inserted into the spark plug hole. When the screwdriver 
has reached it's maximum distance into the engine, that is when one cylinder 
is at bottom dead centre (or top dead centre - can't remember which). Mark 
the screwdriver with the marker where it exits from the engine and you now 
know when one cylinder is at the proper position for a valve adjustment. 
Again, can't remember (advancing old age) which cylinder is ready for valve 
adjustment when that measurement is reached, but it's obvious anyways. 
Repeat for other cylinder.

You might want to do this the first time with the fairing off so you can 
confirm the cylinder position using the timing hole. I don't know about the 
throttle bodies as I have my dealer do this.

I take no credit for this method - learned it here or on the big list. It 
has saved me tons of time and much beer. Not only is taking the fairing off 
a pain in the butt, but replacing the timing hole cover without shoving it 
into the engine can cause much frustration.

Kevin Kerr
1998 R1100RT
Rolling Broccoli Rider
Ottawa, ON Canada
chromed@xxxxxxxxxxxx

>
> Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 12:34:04 -0800
> From: Marco S Hyman <marc@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: valves adjustments
>
> I have an old R69S which is dependent upon me for all maintenance.   I
> enjoy working on that old, simple bike.   That joy hasn't transferred to
> my R1150RT, though.  It gets ridden to the dealer every 6K.  I think
> part of the reason was that I didn't like the hassle of removing the
> plastic on the RT to get at anything.
>
> I had to remove the plastic (and tank) to re-route some audio and
> radar detector cables as I'd decided I wanted them on the left side
> of the handlebars, not the right.  As long as the plastic was off, I
> thought, why not tweak valves and throttle bodies?  I was curious to
> see if it would make a difference, even though the bike was serviced
> about a 1200 miles ago.
>
> While the bike was open I checked the air filter.  I pulled 2-3 cc
> of small gravel bits out of the air cleaner housing, all on the safe
> side of the filter.  Wow.
>
> Anyway, I spent about 30-45 minutes per side getting each pair of
> valves as close to matching as my fingers can feel.   I then rode
> the bike a bit to help warm it up.  Back in the driveway I hooked
> a twin-max to the throttle bodies and let the bike idle a few minutes
> until 5 bars showed on the temp guage.  Some minor adjustments to the
> air bypass screws got the idle balanced at the appropriate RPM.
> The balance held at RPM; no further adjustments were needed.
>
> It makes a difference.   Not a lot, but noticeable.   Giving that level
> of care to valve adjustments is not something I'd be willing to pay my
> dealer to do at $75/hr or whatever he's charging these days.  It is,
> however, well worth doing myself.  I've just got to get over my
> reluctance to pull the left side plastic panel.   Maybe I'll make
> that my New Year Resolution.
>
> // marc

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