Tank fit, turn signal switches

["John Dancoe" <jdan@xxxxxxxx>]

Subject is a '93 R11RS w/73k miles.

Two things maybe others have some ideas about:

1. It's very difficult to re-install the gas tank after removal. The problem
is getting worse over time. I have to use leverage using the seat mounts as a
fulcrum, and an excessive amount of force to push the tank forward far enough
to line up the tank mounting hole with the holes in the frame tabs.

I'm overstressing the assembly and either the tank or the frame tabs will
eventually crack.

The tank's never been easy to install in this regard, but the problem
certainly got worse after I reinstalled the transmission after the clutch and
input shaft were replaced (about 20k miles ago). Recently, while the tank was
still installed, I tried loosening the tank mount and all the rear subframe
mounting bolts, then retightening them. My theory was that some misalignment
had occurred when I installed the transmission and subframe but that the force
of the tank trying return to its relaxed dimension (which force must be
considerable) would push the subframe rearward and thus improve the
alignment.

However, that theory proved false and the tank was just as hard to install the
next time.

Any ideas about this, any similar experiences?

2. Within a year of buying the bike, the turn signal cancel switch became very
unreliable (pressing it fails to cancel the blinkers), and has been so ever
since. Often it takes several attempts, or sustained pressure on the switch,
before the cancel happens. I can improve this condition by removing the switch
block and shooting contact cleaner into it. But the first rainstorm, or a few
weeks of use, will re-introduce the unreliability.

I've lived with this for years by using the trick of pressing both turn
signals at once, which causes a single 4-way flash and then cancellation. This
is actually kind of cool and it worked well for me for years. I think only
early oilheads had this feature, but that it was considered a "bug" and was
eliminated from later models.

But now the wear on the switches, and perhaps my own declining skill at
synchronizing the press on both switches, has rendered this technic unreliable
as well.

Short of buying new switches, does anyone know of a treatment with a more
permanent effect?

Regards,
John D

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