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Re: Tank fit, turn signal switches

John,  Can't help you with the tank, but you might want to try WD40 on 
the switch.  It would hold up better in the wet.

Bob Hadden '05R12GS, '62R27

On Jul 1, 2005, at 9:41 AM, John Dancoe wrote:

> Subject is a '93 R11RS w/73k miles.
> Two things maybe others have some ideas about:
> 1. It's very difficult to re-install the gas tank after removal. The 
> problem
> is getting worse over time. I have to use leverage using the seat 
> mounts as a
> fulcrum, and an excessive amount of force to push the tank forward far 
> enough
> to line up the tank mounting hole with the holes in the frame tabs.
> I'm overstressing the assembly and either the tank or the frame tabs 
> will
> eventually crack.
> The tank's never been easy to install in this regard, but the problem
> certainly got worse after I reinstalled the transmission after the 
> clutch and
> input shaft were replaced (about 20k miles ago). Recently, while the 
> tank was
> still installed, I tried loosening the tank mount and all the rear 
> subframe
> mounting bolts, then retightening them. My theory was that some 
> misalignment
> had occurred when I installed the transmission and subframe but that 
> the force
> of the tank trying return to its relaxed dimension (which force must be
> considerable) would push the subframe rearward and thus improve the
> alignment.
> However, that theory proved false and the tank was just as hard to 
> install the
> next time.
> Any ideas about this, any similar experiences?
> 2. Within a year of buying the bike, the turn signal cancel switch 
> became very
> unreliable (pressing it fails to cancel the blinkers), and has been so 
> ever
> since. Often it takes several attempts, or sustained pressure on the 
> switch,
> before the cancel happens. I can improve this condition by removing 
> the switch
> block and shooting contact cleaner into it. But the first rainstorm, 
> or a few
> weeks of use, will re-introduce the unreliability.
> I've lived with this for years by using the trick of pressing both turn
> signals at once, which causes a single 4-way flash and then 
> cancellation. This
> is actually kind of cool and it worked well for me for years. I think 
> only
> early oilheads had this feature, but that it was considered a "bug" 
> and was
> eliminated from later models.
> But now the wear on the switches, and perhaps my own declining skill at
> synchronizing the press on both switches, has rendered this technic 
> unreliable
> as well.
> Short of buying new switches, does anyone know of a treatment with a 
> more
> permanent effect?
> Regards,
> John D