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Re: Tank fit, turn signal switches

Thanks for all the tips.

Interesting: ever since I wrote that e-mail, the turn signal cancel switch has
been behaving perfectly. I must have embarrassed it.

I've considered the signal-minder as a solution, and it's nice to know there
are some used relays available at a discount. I might take one of you up on it
since I like the running light feature. But I have always prided myself on my
attentiveness to cancelling my signals manually.

I have done a disassembly of the switch in the past and yes it requires care,
it would be very easy to lose or incorrectly replace those little springs! I
will give the WD-40 a try; I tend to avoid WD-40 especially as a lubricant,
but it's true that "WD" stands for "Water Displacing".

I will definitely try lubing the tank mounts, good idea! I'll also try leaving
the filler open, that is an interesting possibility. In fact, I noticed since
the last time I mounted the tank, the filler has been a bit reluctant to open.
It seems sensitive to the orientation of the key (i.e., I can turn the key but
the cap won't open, but if I reinsert the key 180 degrees and turn, the cap
will open). I never observed this sensitivity before. I assume it to be an
effect of stressing the tank.

Note however: I removed the charcoal canister years ago. The vent lines are
open straight to atmosphere, and I don't see how there could be any pressure
buildup. Back when the canister was in place, after it got contaminated with
fuel it definitely plugged the vent system and the tank developed a
substantial vacuum as the pump drew down the fuel level. It was difficult to
open the filler at that time, but it was quite obvious why: when I finally
pried the cap loose enough to break the seal, the tank re-inflated quite

This is certainly no longer a possibility, as my fuel pump has been completely
disabled for the past several hundred miles.

That last statement is intended as a tantalizing clue to an upcoming post ;)

John Dancoe