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Re: Autolite 3923 washer

Mike and Tom,

Since I think my post was the one that started this anti anti-seize 
campaign to begin with, I just have to say the reason I started using 
anti-seize to begin with was my experience having to Helicoil one head 
because someone at a BMW shop over torqued and stripped one of my spark 
plugs. (Getting anyone to admit they were accountable for that was 
another matter.)  Forever after on my '94 RS, I change my own plugs by 
the finger tight + 1/4 turn method and, yes, I have until now applied 
some anti-seize.  I do appreciate all the expertise (much greater than 
my own) on this list and so will no longer apply anti seize to those 
threads.  And given all the responses about Autolites & rust, I will 
change my plugs, whatever the brand, more often - at least once a 
season.  I used to wait until the bike started running "poorly" before 
remembering that new plugs do make a big difference and change them 
along with a good valve adjustment and throttle body synch (which I do 
probably twice a season).

I usually apply some anti-seize to my brake caliper bolts before 
torquing after a front tire change.  Now that seems to be a bad idea 
too!  Should I just throw that stuff out (and buy some new caliper bolts)?

John Van Deren
Montpelier, VT
'94 RS 110k miles (still hoping weather cooperates for more rides - snow 
on the ground this morning)

Mike Wilson wrote:

> From: <Tpcutter@xxxxxxx>
>> A safe rule of thumb for all gasketed spark plugs is simple: install 
>> finger
>> tight, then tighten 1/8 turn more for used plugs, 1/4 turn for new 
>> plugs the
>> first time only. The extra 1/8 turn forms the gasket the first  time.
> I use the various oilhead maintenance guides available online from 
> ibmwr, the Clymer manual and this newsgroup to guide my maintenance 
> efforts. Following the recommendations of the first two I've always 
> applied a little non-metallic anti-seize to spark plug threads - so 
> this topic has has been a bit of a worry for me. The oilhead 
> maintenance guides specify a little anti-seize and a torque value of 
> 15 ft/lb, but, having learned the hard way, I no longer use a 
> lubricant and a torque wrench on the same thread, but instead use an 
> exact method of tensioning so at least I'm unlikely to have 
> overtightened the plugs... or so I thought.
> I follow the the Clymer manual specification of finger tight then 1/2 
> turn for new plugs and 1/4 turn when reusing a compression washer on a 
> used plug - that's twice your recommendation Tom - 100% is a big 
> difference. Am I overtightening and running the risk of damaging the 
> threads in the heads?
> Mike Wilson
> Lilydale, Tasmania
> 1999 R850R