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2002 R1150RT Recommended Mods II


I'm sticking to my opinions that Two Brothers exhaust for the RT is too
stinking loud and that spending huge dollars on a turbo kit for an RT is a
complete waste of money and will lower the resale value and the prospective
buyer population when you try and sell.  Lot's to think about if you want to
go that way.

RT's are long distance bikes and they shouldn't have real loud exhausts.   I
do like the touring pipe that Remus puts out.  Pulling the CAT and the CCP
will eliminate surge, but it will also hurt your MPG a bit.   It is a
worthwhile improvement on an 1100, especially one that surges badly.

By the way, if you have a bike that surges BADLY, all the 0=0 and throttle
synchs will not eliminate it.  It will make it tolerable, but it will always
be there unless you pull the CCP or use a Techlusion thing.  I had an 83i
power box on my 1100RT and I liked it after I finally fastened the wiring
securely and got it adjusted perfectly...kind of a long, but fun process.

Using GS tubes on an RT or RS is great, but again, this works much better on
an 1100 than an 1150.  The guys who've tried this from other lists have
reported pinging at higher RPMs, like in passing situations etc.   Bob
Lentini blew a hole in a piston after 87K miles.  He advocated mid-grade
gas, larger valve lash clearances, Autolite spark plugs (which are a bit
longer than stock) and advanced timing.   I don't know if he used GS tubes
on his RS, but something he was doing or some combination of what he was
doing caused a severe problem over time.

Now that I've said all that, I'll add that I had GS tubes on my RS and loved
them.   They are great on an 1100 RS or RT.  They give better torque in the
low and mid RPMS with a very slight dip at near red line.   These tubes are
narrower in diameter and quite a bit longer.  The extra length is hidden in
the air box.   These tubes are available from the dealer and cost about $40
for the set.   They go between the airbox and the throttle body.   Alignment
of the tubes is important for the bike to run smoothly.  When you put them
in, make sure the little marks on the tubes line up with the little marks on
the throttle bodies.   This is not difficult, but if you don't do it, you'll
put them on and say that they made the bike run rough and remove them.

I'll probably buy a pair and try them on my '04 just to satisfy myself that
I'm not missing anything, but I'm fully prepared to take them off again if
they make the bike ping.

I'm also sticking to the idea that these new servo powered brakes with the
linked system are extremely difficult to bleed and service.  You really want
to think twice about stainless lines for them because it means opening up a
sealed system and then trying to get the air back out.  These brakes are NOT
normal in any way.   For instance, the level of the front brake fluid
doesn't go down when you wear down the front pads.   How come?  Because
they're NOT NORMAL.   If you're willing to have the dealer take a stab at
installing the lines or do them yourself and trailer the bike in so the
dealer can bleed everything for you, then go ahead and attempt this,
otherwise, just leave em alone.   They really stop the way they are.

For 1100's I had great success with EBC HH brake pads.   They stop with much
less effort and don't feel spongy.  Great improvement.  They also don't
damage rotors and make a bit less dust.   Nice pads...for 1100RT.  For 1150,
I surely don't need lower effort.  I'd like better feel, but messing with
the friction coefficient sounds to me like it could mess up the way the
brakes work and could give some problems.  I don't understand all the
nuances of this new brake system yet, but I know enough to keep my fingers
outta there until I do.  Servicing brakes is one of the few things I will
have the dealer do on my bike.

- -TB