[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Head bolt re-torquing
- Subject: Re: Head bolt re-torquing
- From: Tpcutter@xxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 15:47:24 EDT
In a message dated 4/8/05 10:08:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
<<On previous boxers, conscientious attentions to the head bolts and cylinder
studs were important. Not so on the Oilheads where after the 600 mile check,
nothing but neglect to the whole dozen of them - except for loosening two
studs for valve sideplay adjustment.
I'd appreciate any information on re-torquing or the avoidance of same. It
seems there's a 90 plus 90 degree spec on the cylinder studs (must make them
pretty tight, eh?). Is that the way to do it or could a max torque rating be
BMW claims that "angle torquing," i.e. setting a minimal torque figure then
turning the fastener a specified number of degrees to achieve final clamping
force, is more accurate than conventional torque measurement devices when
applied tot stretch hardware incorporated in the Oilhead design. The same type
of fasteners have been in use in BMW cars since the early 80's, and on the K
models since inception. It works and is pretty easy to accomplish on the
I retorque one additional time at around 10K miles, as that seems to
alleviate lots of cylinder head weepage complaints. Since the damn head gaskets are
almost $50 US, I always try a retorque before tearing everything apart.
I actually just do the first initial torque of 14 ft/lb, then I go a full
180 degrees in one shot. Haven't busted a stud or torn out a case thread yet,
although I have heard of both things happening.
"The adventure begins when things stop going as planned."
Rubber Chicken Racing Garage T-shirts coming, inquire here...