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Re: Brake bleeder?

> From: Tpcutter@xxxxxxx
> That is the "grub screw" fitting  used with BMW's dealer-only pressure
> bleeding apparatus. You can remove the grub  screw and collar and fit 
> a speed
> bleeder or standard bleed nipple like the the  other side. Hint, use 
> HEA to break
> the very strong Loctite used on the collar  and screw.
> You can do the same thing on the clutch  bleeder ssetup, which is 
> cleverly
> hidden along the frame cross tube inside a  foam sleeve.
> Tom Cutter

Many thanks Tom, once again. Of the dozens of pictures of calipers in 
the factory manual CD and Clymer 2004, only picture is page 618, fig 
196 in Clymer,

Like a speedbleeder or some checkvalve mechanism? Is there any way to 
attach a MityVac to the thing?

For removal, I suppose heating with a cigarette-lighter-type butane 
torch would be good. Unaccustomed as I am to newish bikes, I am finding 
many of the screws on my 1999 R1100S to be rather tight... PIA.

> From: Bob Hadden <kbhadden@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> I put Spiegler on my R1100RS a couple years back.  Made absolutely no
> difference in the spongy feeling of the brakes.  They worked great, but
> didn't have that rock solid feel of pre abs regular breaks.
> Bob Hadden '05R12GS, '62R27

1. At the best, benefit of SS is mainly to looks (which is why I opted 
for thinner Spiegler line); braking benefit (which really is there) 
depends on how old and how long is the rubber being replaced. BMW has a 
taste for grotesque brake line runs in ugly rubber - are they too cheap 
to use that trick thin hydraulic clutch line on the brake lines (maybe 
it doesn't meet stds for more critical brake use?)?

2. Often takes a few days to get all the bubbles out and so hard to 
make a trustworthy simultaneous before-and-after comparison.

3. Geeez, odd to hear you say that, Bob. I thought ALL mods a person 
does themself always result in immense improvements!

Sunny in Toronto