[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Raising the bars on an R1100S
- Subject: Raising the bars on an R1100S
- From: Ben Barkow <dr.ben@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 18:28:19 -0400
Unlucky me, I don't have the back for touring with the stock cafe racer
low clip-ons, nice as they are. Lucky me, a distinguished local person
well-known to this list wanted to trade high for low. The clip-on
assemblies are different but, in fact, the low style would have worked
fine for me (with extra height raised grips) but still the high
clip-ons look better. The main challenge (only on non-ABS R1100S
machines) is installing longer brake lines.
I am able to sit pretty much straight up (6 feet, 210 pounds) with the
arrangement to be described below. But to get the airflow over my
eyebrow height, I need a 24 inch windscreen and an 8 inch piece of
Saeng edging on top. Works good.
I have the stanchions raised about 1 3/4 inches above the upper triple
clamp. I have the clip-ons rotated from their tabbed position about 10
degrees tankward. This was done (contrary to my intuition about how
wrists are designed) to bring the grips closer to me and has a valuable
consequence of making it possible to hit the turn cancel switch without
dislocating my thumb.
Given the mechanical design and close machining, I don't think you need
the locating tab or the screw to keep the clip-ons from rotating.
Part of what makes this work is that I have use elliptical
cross-section bicycle handlebar tape (rubberized true cork - cork one
of the great materials of the world, along with sheepskin for your
backside). I wrap the cork tape fat around the distal end of the rubber
grip and thin around the inner end.
With this arrangement, brake lines 29 and 31 inches are about right. I
ordered 30 and 32 and that is OK but a bit more slack than needed.
Don't take my word for length; make your own personal mistakes.
Of course, I have the throttle counter-force spring in place (see URL
for pix below). Also, it seems you can squish the grip towards the
bar-end weights and have any degree of friction you want. I set mine
for enough friction to (with the help of the counter-force spring) hold
the throttle steady. This morning I went riding and was able to take
both hands off the bars. Bike went straight... surprise! Some folks
consider this unsafe, certainly for an off-road bike. In olden tymes,
BMWs were set up for no spring-back of the throttle and I think
adjusting your gloves while riding and two handed waves are a hoot. For
sure, stock spring force is far too much and ThrottleMeister is a
wholly wonky idea (wanna fight the friction for 8 hrs?).
All in all, I am exceedingly happy I could move the bars into a
position that lets me be fairly upright, in a postural sense.
Tom Cutter, as always, gave me good advice about moving the clip-ons
but I won't say what advice he gave me so as to avoid the chance he
will be faulted for anything dumb I've done. Thanks Tom.
"Toronto Spring" counter-forces spring