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No-one addressed your brake light problem :)   BTW welcome to this list.

If you lie down and look under the foot brake pedal you will clearly see the
contact arrangement which is activated by the adjustable screw and locknut.
I suspect this may be No 1 cause of your problem.

If not, take a phillips screwdriver and remove the one countersunk screw
holding a cover over the inboard side of the front brake.  With a bit of
manoevering(sp) it will come off and reveal a tiny microswitch.  As you
start to pull the brake lever you should hear a small click and you can also
see it's action.

Take great care if you ever want to R&R the front microswitch - the holding
screws must be around 1 or 2 mm dia and I think they have been loctited and
they twist off easily (DAMHIK).

Oh, yes, I have the Factory Manual as well as the "Oilhead" Haynes and have
found that they correspond to one another fairly well...

Clive Liddell
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
'96 R850R ~79k.km
'01 R1100RT ~59k.km

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx]On
> Behalf Of Fritz Curtis
> Sent: 07 August, 2005 15:47
> To: Oilheads
> Subject: RTP
> Just bought a "Chips" bike from a dealer.  Upon arriving home
> with the bike, I discovered the brake light is always on!!
> The dealer will fix it for me but it means a 100 mile ride without
> a brake light.  Yes I know how to give hand signals but most
> cage drivers don't understand them.  I just wondered if this is
> an idiosyncrosy associated with the R1100RT and involves a "quick fix"
> of some sort.
> By the way, I am a newbie on this list as I have retired from the Airhead
> group since I sold my two airheads.  I was hoping I could do more riding
> and less wrenching.
> Also, could anyone tell me about a good readable manual for my
> oilhead?  Is Clymer still the best or at least most popular?
> Fritz in Owosso, Michigan