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- Subject: RE:Manual choices
- From: "Minor, Bob" <Bminor@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 09:16:54 -0700
The Haynes manual is great as a quick reference for torques and things
but if you're going to do anything serious you better have the factory
manual too. I've done the clutch and head gaskets on my 96 RS, I
wouldn't recommend doing this work with only the Haynes.
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Clive Liddell
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 2:56 AM
Subject: RE: RTP
No-one addressed your brake light problem :) BTW welcome to this list.
If you lie down and look under the foot brake pedal you will clearly see
the contact arrangement which is activated by the adjustable screw and
locknut. I suspect this may be No 1 cause of your problem.
If not, take a phillips screwdriver and remove the one countersunk screw
holding a cover over the inboard side of the front brake. With a bit of
manoevering(sp) it will come off and reveal a tiny microswitch. As you
start to pull the brake lever you should hear a small click and you can
also see it's action.
Take great care if you ever want to R&R the front microswitch - the
holding screws must be around 1 or 2 mm dia and I think they have been
loctited and they twist off easily (DAMHIK).
Oh, yes, I have the Factory Manual as well as the "Oilhead" Haynes and
have found that they correspond to one another fairly well...
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
'96 R850R ~79k.km
'01 R1100RT ~59k.km
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-oilheads@xxxxxxxxx]On
> Behalf Of Fritz Curtis
> Sent: 07 August, 2005 15:47
> To: Oilheads
> Subject: RTP
> Just bought a "Chips" bike from a dealer. Upon arriving home with the
> bike, I discovered the brake light is always on!! The dealer will fix
> it for me but it means a 100 mile ride without a brake light. Yes I
> know how to give hand signals but most cage drivers don't understand
> them. I just wondered if this is an idiosyncrosy associated with the
> R1100RT and involves a "quick fix" of some sort.
> By the way, I am a newbie on this list as I have retired from the
> group since I sold my two airheads. I was hoping I could do more
> and less wrenching.
> Also, could anyone tell me about a good readable manual for my
> oilhead? Is Clymer still the best or at least most popular?
> Fritz in Owosso, Michigan