Installing Ohlins

["Tom Brown" <tbrown@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Cees:

I've done this about 5 times on this very model.  Also did two 1150RTs and a
1200RT.


REAR:
You have to remove the rear wheel to get to the rear shock.   It's pretty
obvious what needs to be done.

Non-obvious:
Make sure you put something under the paralever to keep the driveshaft from
overextending when the shock is removed.  I use a floor jack, but anything
that has a good base and can be made to fit under there will do.

Make sure that you get the bolts very tight.  This is one place where you can
use some torque.  About the same as your lug bolts.   If they're not tight,
they'll make clicking noises over every bump.


Remove the preload adjustment assembly prior to removing the shock.  I take
the preload assy loose, but not out, first, then remove the bottom bolt, then
pull the preload assy loose, then remove the top bolt almost all the way. I
get under the bike and hold the shock while I pull out the top bolt and remove
everything.

You have to clip some tie wraps to remove the remote preload and there is one
small bolt.    The remote preload on the Ohlins fits in the same hole and can
be routed pretty much in the same way.  It's not critical that you get it
exactly the same, just make it neat and be sure the preload hose is routed so
the suspension can move the way it needs to and nothing rubs.   I put the top
bolt in loosely first, then stick the preload stuff roughly in position to get
it out of the way, then tighten the bottom bolt, then the top and then mount
the preload stuff.   The preload hose faces the front of the bike on the
shock

FRONT:

Lots not obvious here, but it's all doable.

You don't need to remove the tank, but you need to move it back about 3
inches.

You need to remove both side fairings and then the plastic stuff attached to
the tank on the left side of the bike.  This would be the radio pocket, and
the plastic intake pipe underneath it.   You need 3mm and 4mm allen wrenches
for this.

There is a silver colored allen bolt and star nut at the lower right of the
tank (remove the seat.) .     You won't see the nut.  It's buried behind the
subframe and some gas tank vent lines.  There is no washer (thank god)
although it feels like there is one.   I put my finger on the nut and loosen
the bolt, then pull the bolt out and the nut up with my finger.  It works more
than half the time since I've practiced so much..  If you loose the nut, it's
a good idea to have a magnet and flashlight or other fishing device(s) handy
to retrieve it.   The nut is made with a star pattern that grabs the inside
surface of the frame so you don't need a wrench on it when you retighten the
bolt.  The rear flange of the tank fits in a pocket.  This bolt slides
throught there to locate and secure the tank.

After you remove the above bolt and nut, lift the rear of the tank up enough
to get the tank's flang out of the frame pocket, then scoot the tank back.
There are two rubber covered fat pins coming out right and left from the front
of the frame.  The tank is shaped to funnel around these pins...hard to
describe.   Suffice to say, once the bolt is removed, the tank can slide back
a bit before all the hoses stop the fun.

After you've slid the tank back enough to expose the top shock mount, with a
flashlight, look under the front side of the tank and look at these rubber
covered pins.   Those rubber things can fall off the pins, so make sure
they're on when you replace the tank.

Put your bags on the back of the bike when you do the front shocks so the back
of the bike is weighed down.  Put a V-block of woood or something under the
front wheel to keep it from overextending.

You'll see pretty much what you need to see once the tank has been pushed
back.   You'll need  14mm and a 15mm box wrenches.  If you have ratcheting box
wrenches, one of those makes the job a bit easier.  You can also use a socket
on the bottom, but you need the top wrench to be open.

The top of the shock shaft must be kept from turning while you loosen (and
then tighten) the top retaining nut.  BMW uses a 10mm (from memory) flat on
their shafts, so you need a 10mm end wrench for that.   Ohlins uses a 4mm
(again from memory) allen.   Don't allow the shafts to turn on the shocks when
you remove them and tighten them.  They must be held.  You can damage them if
you turn them too much.  I've turned them 1/4 turn or so without damage, but
try not to.   It's pretty difficult to get the top nut really tight.  You will
be limited by how much the small wrench can take.

Ohlins supplied a rubber grommet for the top.  The BMW one is better and, as
long as it is in good shape, there's no reason to use the Ohlins.  I saved
mine in the box.

After you replace the tank, check the throttle body cable on the right side of
the bike.   It often gets pulled out of its metal cup when the tank lines are
moved around...lots of stuff going on under that lower right tank, as you will
see.   Just make sure it's in position and, if it's not, replace it.

I start the bike just after I've put the big bolt back in, just to be sure
everything is right.   If the bike barely runs, it means the right throttle
cable is pulled out of it's perch.   If you get a fuel leak, just shut off the
ignition and find the clamp that pulled out.  That probably won't
happen...never has to me, but I'd rather find out the problems before I
replace the fairings.   Also check with a flashlight for pinched lines etc.
If you've managed to get the big bolt in and tight, you probably have all the
lines in place.

Now that all is well, put the radio pocket and plastic intake back on.  Don't
forget that little bolt way in under the radio pocket....and the one that
secures the speedo cable.

Now replace the fairings and enjoy your new shocks.

Keep the Ohlins boxes.   If you received your shocks in the mail, keep the
shipping container too.  Store your stock shocks in the boxes.  When you send
the Ohlins out for rebuilding, you can put the stock shocks on and you can use
the boxes to ship the Ohlins.

- -TB


>My Ohlins shocks arrived yesterday. Because the shocks are very much
hidden on a R1100RT, I wonder how much I'll have to remove to replace
them. Fairing side panels I'll manage ;-), but I still haven't gotten
around ordering a shop manual so if anyone can give me some tips, it's
most appreciated...

TIA,

Cees

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