Re: Hall sensor

[tpcutter@xxxxxxx]

<< Roadside change of a Hall sensor is VERY do-able. I intend on 
putting
together a spare when I have some spare cash (on unemployment). On my 
R1100R, no
fairings, it takes less then 1/2 hour to do a swap with minimal tools. 
The
position can be guessed at, or you can go with full advance... just 
make sure
you don't honk it at low RPM's or you'll get detonation.>>


Once the Hall sensor has BEEN replaced, you have the issue of setting 
the timing at roadside.

Roadside engine timing is a piece of cake, just not as tasty or filling.

You need a flashlight, or to just orient the bike so that the sun 
shines directly on the right-hand side of the bike. Then you pull out 
the rubber timing hole plug, located on the crankcase behind the right 
throttle body, and slightly above. To pull the plug, use any long 
screwdriver or similar to push up on the plug until it pops out where 
you can grab it. If you lose the plug in the hole, forget about it, NO 
harm will come from that. When this job is finished, store the plug and 
take it home where you can fight it with a long pair of needlenose 
pliers. Don't waste time and curses attempting to install the plug at 
roadside.

With ALL of the other work finished, leave the alternator belt cover 
off. Use your socket or wrench to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise 
slowly until you see the "OT" mark appear in the timing hole. For some 
odd reason, BMW failed to make an actual reference line in the timing 
hole. Make your own mark on the right side of th ehole, centered 
vertically. Just draw a little line or mark that you can visually line 
up with the line directly below the OT mark on he flywheel (that is the 
thing you see through the hole.) Turn the engine over with the pulley 
bolt (ignition switch OFF!) and align the timing marks.

Loosen the screws that affix the timing pickup plate to the front of 
the motor. Rotate the plate CLOCKWISE to the end of the range. Leave 
the screws just barely snug, so that you can easily turn the plate 
without it flopping round.

Turn on the ignition switch and "kill switch" and QUICKLY, but 
deliberately, rotate the timing plate counterclockwise until you hear 
the fuel pump hum. Stop just at the point that first makes the pump 
run, as approached from the far clockwise (viewed from front) starting 
position. Secure the plate in this position by snugging the screws a 
half turn or less. Now turn the motor using the pulley bolt, CLOCKWISE, 
about ten or fifteen degrees.

Turn the ignition key OFF. Position yourself to look into the timing 
hole, as you will be looking at the mark move as you turn the engine 
counterclockwise with the pulley bolt, simultaneously looking at the 
timing mark.

Turn on the ignition and kill switches. QUICKLY turn the engine 
counterclockwise as you look at the timing mark. You should hear the 
fuel pump run just as the line below the OT mark passes your reference 
line in the case. If so, then tihten the plate screws snug plus a bit, 
then reinstall the rest of the parts. The bike should run WELL after 
this job, If it runs really crappy, check the right-sede throttl ecable 
where it enters the adjuster sleeve, It may be hung up.

Tom Cutter
Yardley, PA
www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com
"If you love something, let it go.
If it comes back to you, you just high-sided."
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End of oilheads-digest V4 #4
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