oilheads-digest Tuesday, January 9 2007 Volume 04 : Number 004
In this issue:
RE: Hall sensor
RE: Hall sensor
Re: oilheads-digest V4 #2
Re: Hall sensor
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Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 09:48:57 -0500
From: "Dancoe, John" <jdan@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Hall sensor
Re: Andren Appelquest's "running hot": I concur with the diagnoses of retarded
timing.
On the subject of Hall sensors, a Q for Tom Cutter in particular, but others'
opinions will be welcomed...or at least tolerated ;)
80k miles on my '93 R11RS. Planning to ride from Michigan to Colorado next
summer. Should I:
a) replace the Hall sensor to prevent getting stuck in the middle of Kansas
or
b) buy a spare and carry it and my digital VOM with me (assumption: field
replacement is practical) or
c) whistle past the graveyard or
d) [insert your better idea here]
Regards,
John D
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Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 14:29:56 -0800 (PST)
From: ABSDoug <absdoug@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Hall sensor
Roadside change of a Hall sensor is VERY do-able. I intend on putting together a spare when I have some spare cash (on unemployment). On my R1100R, no fairings, it takes less then 1/2 hour to do a swap with minimal tools. The position can be guessed at, or you can go with full advance... just make sure you don't honk it at low RPM's or you'll get detonation.
a) Rather then replace, improve. The wiring from the actual Hall Sensors to the plug is the problem with these sensors. The Hall sensor itself has wiring that holds up fine. There is a BMW guy by the name "Coon" that has the wiring you want. This is what I did.
b) Buying a spare means you have a Hall sensor with the same POS wiring in it. See a.
"Dancoe, John" <jdan@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
a) replace the Hall sensor to prevent getting stuck in the middle of Kansas
or
b) buy a spare and carry it and my digital VOM with me (assumption: field
replacement is practical) or
c) whistle past the graveyard or
d) [insert your better idea here]
Regards,
John D
- ----
ABSDoug (Heavily medicated for your protection!)
You never really know a woman till you meet her IN COURT.
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http://mail.yahoo.com
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Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:59:09 -0500
From: "R1200CA motorcycle" <z281le@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oilheads-digest V4 #2
Hello,
Request for comments on using BMW's OEM QDs?
I had broached the subject with my mechanic by sending snippets of this
thread and a photo of someone's install of some metal QDs to him along with
a few questions.
He said that the weak link of any QD system is the O-ring due to cuts and
pinching that occur from time to time during use.
My mechanic suggested I use the BMW ones because the supply of replacement
O-rings is as only as far as the parts counter.
Thanks for reading,
Johnny
2000 R1200C Avantgarde
1994 z/28 RPO-1LE
AMA, BMWMOA, BMWMC/Ottawa, Chromeheads, rider, working stiff.
On 1/6/07, oilheads-digest <oilheads@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
oilheads-digest Saturday, January 6 2007 Volume 04 : Number
002
In this issue:
Re: Broken fuel line quick disconect
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 12:55:07 -0500
From: Don MacQueen <dmac@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken fuel line quick disconect
Ken wrote:
Big thread on this subject over at ADVrider recently:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116614&page=6
I've got a set backordered from www.omega.com. Expensive for sure,
time will tell if they are worth the expense.
I've ordered the same set. It was too complicated and even more
expensive to get the Swageloks. I have a regular GS, so I only
needed the feed and return lines. I was adding them to make taking
the tank on and off less of a PITA, and didn't want to trust the OE
type.
HTH.
- --
____________________________________
Don MacQueen, Shelby NC
'02 R1150GS
'75 R90/6
'06 Daytona 675
'05 B5.5 Passat PD-TDI
'01 Great Googoolee Moogoolee
'02 BikeE E2
WolfPack #004 emeritus
BMWRA, BMWMOA, ADVrider,TDIclub.com,
Apriliaforum, triumph675.net, RAT
____________________________________
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End of oilheads-digest V4 #2
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- --
So many roads, so little time.
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 00:47:05 -0500
From: tpcutter@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hall sensor
<< Roadside change of a Hall sensor is VERY do-able. I intend on
putting
together a spare when I have some spare cash (on unemployment). On my
R1100R, no
fairings, it takes less then 1/2 hour to do a swap with minimal tools.
The
position can be guessed at, or you can go with full advance... just
make sure
you don't honk it at low RPM's or you'll get detonation.>>
Once the Hall sensor has BEEN replaced, you have the issue of setting
the timing at roadside.
Roadside engine timing is a piece of cake, just not as tasty or filling.
You need a flashlight, or to just orient the bike so that the sun
shines directly on the right-hand side of the bike. Then you pull out
the rubber timing hole plug, located on the crankcase behind the right
throttle body, and slightly above. To pull the plug, use any long
screwdriver or similar to push up on the plug until it pops out where
you can grab it. If you lose the plug in the hole, forget about it, NO
harm will come from that. When this job is finished, store the plug and
take it home where you can fight it with a long pair of needlenose
pliers. Don't waste time and curses attempting to install the plug at
roadside.
With ALL of the other work finished, leave the alternator belt cover
off. Use your socket or wrench to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise
slowly until you see the "OT" mark appear in the timing hole. For some
odd reason, BMW failed to make an actual reference line in the timing
hole. Make your own mark on the right side of th ehole, centered
vertically. Just draw a little line or mark that you can visually line
up with the line directly below the OT mark on he flywheel (that is the
thing you see through the hole.) Turn the engine over with the pulley
bolt (ignition switch OFF!) and align the timing marks.
Loosen the screws that affix the timing pickup plate to the front of
the motor. Rotate the plate CLOCKWISE to the end of the range. Leave
the screws just barely snug, so that you can easily turn the plate
without it flopping round.
Turn on the ignition switch and "kill switch" and QUICKLY, but
deliberately, rotate the timing plate counterclockwise until you hear
the fuel pump hum. Stop just at the point that first makes the pump
run, as approached from the far clockwise (viewed from front) starting
position. Secure the plate in this position by snugging the screws a
half turn or less. Now turn the motor using the pulley bolt, CLOCKWISE,
about ten or fifteen degrees.
Turn the ignition key OFF. Position yourself to look into the timing
hole, as you will be looking at the mark move as you turn the engine
counterclockwise with the pulley bolt, simultaneously looking at the
timing mark.
Turn on the ignition and kill switches. QUICKLY turn the engine
counterclockwise as you look at the timing mark. You should hear the
fuel pump run just as the line below the OT mark passes your reference
line in the case. If so, then tihten the plate screws snug plus a bit,
then reinstall the rest of the parts. The bike should run WELL after
this job, If it runs really crappy, check the right-sede throttl ecable
where it enters the adjuster sleeve, It may be hung up.
Tom Cutter
Yardley, PA
www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com
"If you love something, let it go.
If it comes back to you, you just high-sided."
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End of oilheads-digest V4 #4
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