After the restoration: 14,400 Mile Service
Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 [13950 miles]
The bike has been running well, save that my gas mileage
has been going downhill, until last weekend when it became a real pain
to start. It took 10 minutes of kicking to get it started after a gas
stop, for example. Today was no better. I rolled it down the hill to
start it when going to Joe’s. Once there I wound up getting a ride to
breakfast with a fellow enthusiast as the bike didn’t want to start.
After breakfast I looking at a few things.
The spark plugs were a bit black. Joe cleaned them up and I put them back in the bike. I’ve new plugs here at home. The bike still wouldn’t start easily.
Joe noticed the dripping gas from the carbs and remembered my comments of a recent large reduction in gas mileage. Off came the lever tops. He removed the needles and looked at then under a loupe. They were old, solid tip style needles, not the current style with a soft tip. He could see a ridge partially around the tip of one of the needle that just about guaranteed that they wouldn’t seal. Some gas would flow regardless of the height of the float. We replaced the needles on both sides. style needles.
Amazing. I’d not have thought that leaky float needles would cause hard starting. I’m curious to see how (if) my gas mileage changes, too. The bike still isn’t running exactly right, but it started and got me home without any problem. The carbs are due for a good cleaning. I think I’ll do that (and use new spark plugs) now and see if that improves running.
Wednesday, Jan 23, 2007 [13959 miles]
I had time today, so I replace the spark plugs with new plugs and removed both carbs and gave them a good cleaning. Jets and airways seem to be clear. If nothing else, they look better. I’ll find out if this helped Saturday.
Monday, Jan 29, 2007 [13964 miles]
The bike didn’t start right away Saturday morning and I noticed gas still dripping from the left carb. Instead of rolling the bike down the hill I took my R1200GS to breakfast and enjoyed a nice ride afterwards. Today I took a closer look at what was going on.
I remove both lever tops. A good look showed that the levers were not adjusted correctly. I suspect that the new needles are slightly shorter than the old. I bent the levers into the proper possition (lever about level with the bottom of the tickle needle when closed) and tried to start the bike again. Much better, only 3 kicks.
The test ride showed the bike to be hesitating off idle. I adjusted the idle air after a short test ride. The bike is idling better. I’ll need another test ride to see if I got rid of the hesitation (or made it worse).
Thursday, Feb 15, 2007 [13985 miles]
A week and a half ago I got the bike started with minimal problems. After breakfast, however, the bike did not want to start, even when pushed. Of course, as soon as someone else tried to kick the bike over after I got tired it fired up on his 2nd kick. Anyway, adjusting carbs without adjusting the valves first was kind of dumb, so today I’m going to check the valves as well as revisiting the float level.
The valves on the left side checked out fine. As long as I was there I re-torqued the head and checked the valves again. Still fine. The right side was another story – not surprising as that head was off the bike this time last year or about 2,000 miles ago. The exhaust was OK, but the intake was tight. I re-torqued that head and set the valves.
As long as I was in the general area of cylinders and heads I checked the cylinder base nuts and renewed the anti-seize on the exhaust nut. One of the base nuts was a touch loose. I also noticed some weepage from the base gasket on the left side of the bike.
Now that the valves are OK I double checked the lever-tops
for float level. I slightly tweaked the top for the left carb. I also
removed and cleaned the idle air screws, something I did not do when I
cleaned the carbs last month. Interesting: the Bing book notes the
starting adjustment of 2 turns out from lightly seated. Mine were 3/4
turn on the left and slightly more than one turn on the right. Rich.
I set them to 2 turns for now and will adjust them correctly once the bike is good and hot.
That’s all for today. More next week, weather permitting.
Wednesday, Mar 21, 2007 [13985 miles]
It’s been well over a month since I’ve done anything on the R69S. Either the weather has been too nice so I’ve been out riding my r1200GS or the weather has been misserable so I’ve not felt like working out in the garage. Too bad, had I started earlier I’d have found the problem with the bike earlier and been riding it on some of those nice days instead of the GS.
One of the things I have done this last month was prepare a “new” advance unit out of pieces from older advance units, selecting the best parts. I thought I’d try this to see if it makes any difference in my top end. More on that, later.
I pulled the front cover to replace the advance and check the static timing. The two pictures of the coil/magneto show the problem that caused me to start this service early, but I didn’t notice it yet. The new advance mechanism went on the bike and I checked the points and adjusted them for appropriate static timing. Then I looked at the spark plug leads.
Well, no wonder the bike is hard to start. Notice the lead for the left side spark. The retaining screw has worked its way loose and the lead is just dangling in the socket. I’m amazed that the bike started at all. I pulled things appart looking for the missing screw but couldn’t find it. I’ll have to scrounge one up as my only spares are with my spare coil which is out on loan. I expect the bike will start easier with both spark leads firmly attached.
Sunday, Mar 31, 2007 [13985 miles]
Jeff brought me the needed set screw (and a spare) yesterday. I hooked the spark plug leads up and tried to start the bike. It eventually ran, quite poorly, for maybe 30 seconds. Twice. Then I got tired and decided to think about things for a bit.
When trying to start I’m sometimes getting a backfire through the exhaust. At least I think it’s through the exhaust. That tells me the timing is off (retarded) or the mixture is too lean. The static timing is correct, but this is a freshly re-built advance mechanism made from the best parts of two not-so-good advance mechanisms I had in my “junk” box. The point is that timing issues are certainly a possibility.
Also, the last thing I did as part of cleaning the carbs was to set the idle air adjustment to the bing recommended starting point of two turns out – they were about one turn out. That was the inspiration for the pictures. Actually, I just like taking pictures of my bike.
Amazing, I touched two things and both can cause the symptoms I’m seeing :-) I think I’m going to adjust the idle air screws back to where I found them before cleaning the carbs and try again. If that doesn’t work I’ll go back to the advance that I took off the bike.
Later Sunday afternoon…
I wrote above that the bike was either lean, or retarded.
How about both! Can I mess up a bike, or what :-)
I reset the idle air to 1 turn from lightly seated and got the bike started without too much effort. It wouldn’t idle at less than about 1500 RPM, however. The timing light showed that the S mark was in the middle of the window. At that RPM I’d have expected it to be in the upper part of the window if it could be seen at all. OK, the timing was off, too.
For the fun of it I put the old advance unit back on the bike and started it without even checking the static timing. The bike idles at around 800 RMP but the timing light shows that the the timing is too advanced. Not surprising. I’ll let the pipes cool down and get the bike timed, later. I’m tired of burning myself on hot pipes when working on the ignition.
Tuesday, Apr 3, 2007 [13985 miles]
Things seemed better when I put the previous advance unit back on the bike, but it needs to be re-timed. Today I started by setting the static timing. The first two images show the points just after they open and the second just before they opened. The third image (slightly enhanced) shows the S mark in the center of the window at the closed-to-open transition.
The tach/timer is telling me that the bike was running quite nice just 23 engine hours ago. I’d like to get it back that way. I re-connected the coil wire to the points and tried kicking it over. I’ve still problems.
I can get the bike started with some effort. While it runs it sounds fine. But it wont keep running. It stops for no apparent reason. Fuel? Spark? Don’t know, yet. It did run long enough to check the timing which looked OK at a slightly elevated idle, so I don’t think that is the problem. I changed the condensor, not because I thought it was a problem (yet) but because I can see that 1/2 or more of the strands in the lead are broken. I’ll repair that, later. Next up is to verify good spark. I’m wishing I had my spare coil in hand right now! It’s out on loan.
Wednesday, Apr 11, 2007 [13985 miles]
I was kicking over the bike when my neighbor, Major WWWobble, came by and stopped to lend moral support and ideas. There is spark, but the spark on the left was maybe a bit week. I readjusted the connection between left spark plug lead and coil. While the plugs were out we checked the compression. 165 on the left, 170 on the right. I pulled the bottom half of the fuel petcock and cleaned its internal filter of the tiniest bit of debris. The bike wants to start, and eventually does, but doesn’t start as easy as it should.
Earlied I’d checked the throttle cables and found the one on the right a bit too tight. I did a quick adjustment with the bike running to get them close. I’ll need to get the bike up to operating temperature before I do any final carb adjustments.
The bike starts, eventually. Once started it is actually running OK, now. The timing seems to be fine at idle and off idle. I did not check to see if the F mark was reached at higher RPM. I suspect that my starting problem is that the idle circuit is still a touch too rich. I’ll ride it to Darryl’s tech day for more work, Saturday. In the meanwhile I’ll charge the battery.
Note: I was sick and did not make it to the tech day. I thought it best to keep my germs to myself instead of sharing.
Friday, May 4, 2007 [14009 miles]
Look what came from Mr UPS man this afternoon, a new coil from Vech. This after market coil has an extra ground strap. I ordered the coil because last Saturday the bike started fine at my house, but was running rough and didn’t want to idle. I rode to Joe’s where I hoped some expert help would help me get the carbs dialed in. We couldn’t get the bike started. After breakfast it started, but after we killed it playing with carb settings it didn’t want to start again. I finally decided to just ride the bike home – it’s only starting that is a problem. It runs fine cruising down the highways. I stopped for gas on the way home and, of course, the bike wouldn’t start until I let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes. These are the classic symptoms of a coil going bad. I’m hoping that’s actually the case and that the new coil fixes the issue.
I tried to get the old coil out without removing the magneto body but found the screw on the left side (the bike’s left) buggered just enough that I couldn’t get a good bite with a stubby screwdriver. I marked the approximate magneto body position with a Sharpie and removed the rotor and then the body to remove the coil.
I placed the extra ground strap on the new coil under the mounting screw, tightened things down, then installed the magneto body back in the bike using the sharpie marks to get it close to where it was. I had just enough time to put the rotor back on the bike when my grandson woke from his nap (it’s babysitting day). I’ll play more, tomorrow.
Saturday, May 5, 2007 [14047 miles]
I took the R1200GS to brunch this morning. After a leisurable ride home and performing some errands I got back to the R69S. Since I’d removed the magneto body I checked the static timing… right on. The bike started after a few kick – a good sign – and the timing light said the dynamic timing is good, too. I’m not reaching full advance, though. My Caro stop screw needs some adjustment.
The bike was stopped and started several times without problem. It sounded like it was running better, too. Time to suit up and take it for a ride.
Much better. I led with Major WWWobble following on a quick ride to Alice’s. After a brief stop there the bike started without problem as we rode to a gas station to get some go juice for WWWobble’s FJR. The acid test: my bike started when hot after being off for only 3-5 minutes.
The above pics show what’s under the cloth covering on a Huggett rewound coil. First some stretchable tape, then some insulating paper, then layer after layer of secondary winding, each layer separated by what looks like a cellophane tape. I didn’t remove enough of the secondary winding to get to the primary.
My bad coil secondary measured about 7K ohm. An original coil that I have on hand that may be good measures about 12K ohm. The new coil measures 20K ohm. Assuming the same gauge wire the new coil has about 3 times the windings and will likely put out about 3 times the voltage as the bad coil.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007 [14424 miles]
I hit 14,400 miles on the ride back from breakfast and CalBMW last Saturday. Family obligations and a rude person who attemted to drive through our yard, taking out part of a fence and our irrigation system before driving away have kept me away from the bike. Oh, and yesterday was my 35th Wedding Anniversary.
The engine was cold wen I drained the oil, but since I’m removing the oil pan for cleaning anyway it really doesn’t make any difference. I got a bit smarter with respect to a drain pan. It’s a cut down plastic bottle that fits between the legs of the center stand. Works great. There was nothing to speak of in the way of metal bits stuck to the magnetic drain plug.
While the oil was draining I removed the exhaust system. This was done for a few reasons: 1) to easier clean it; 2) to get the cross over pipe out of the way to drain the transmission oil; and 3) to apply fresh anti-seize so I’ll be able to remove it in the future should that need arise. I snapped a picture of where I added a spacer on the right side. It’s purely for looks.
The engine oil was quite black, but then it usually is.
This oil was in the bike for just under 1,400 miles or 36 operating hours, slightly more than usual. There was a very small amount of oil on the “shelf”. So small that it’s not worth thinking about.
The transmission oil came out looking quite good, a little darker than new oil, yet still amber in color. This transmission has not given me many problems, but I still may replace it with another that is currently being renewed at the Beemershop. If so, I’ll put a new clutch in the bike at the same time.
Once the transmission was drained I removed the oil pan for cleaning and inspected the oil strainer. I decided that the oil strainer was clean enough and did not remove it. I’ve commented before that the need to clean the strainer and oil pan probably was important before detergent oils. Deposits that stick to case, pan, and strainer just dont happen any more.
I cleaned the pan (mainly the exterior) and checked that the mounting holes weren’t dimpled. I applied some goo to the pan then used a fresh cork gasket. The mounting screws were cleaned and then the pan put back on the bike with the same goo put on the threads of the screws. That’s about all I’m going to do, today.
The exhaust system needs cleaning, polishing, and waxing.
It can wait a little bit. Tools and bike were put away while I contemplate what needs to be done, next. Plugs, points, condensor, cleaning the fuel petcock, and cleaning the carbs were done when trying to diagnose the coil problem.
Wednesday, June 27, 2007 [14424 miles]
Busy today. I did have time to clean, polish, and wax the exhaust system. The parts are wrapped in newspaper to keep dust and dirt off untill they go back on the bike.
Sunday, July 1, 2007 [14424 miles]
Today I’m going to drain the fluid in the swing arm and the final drive as well as remove the final drive and open it up to check for proper bearing orientation, a potential problem pointed out my one of the members of the slash2 mailing list. As usual, I had to back off the left side shock mounting bolt to remove the wheel. I did not have to let the air out of the tire.
I found lots of sludge on the drain plug. Some of it was magnetic, but it was not the slivers of steel that I see when things are going bad. Since I’m opening up the FD anyway I’ll give it a good cleaning. The oil that came out of the final drive did not look that bad. The oil that came out of the swing arm looked new.
The drive splines still look great. I levered off the brake shoes with a large screwdriver and took them outside for cleaning.
Before removing the brake lever I used a scribe to mark its position on the splined brake cam shaft so I can put it back together the way it came apart. The nuts that hold the cover were removed and the cover removed using the puller screws from the many-in-one kit from Ed Korn.
The inside of the FD and the gears look fine. I cleaned out a bit more sludge that had accumulated near the drain plug. The orientation of the ring gear needle bearing is correct on this unit. It must be my spare unit that has it incorrect. When inserted incorrect it looks like this.
I put the FD back together with a new crush ring for the drain plug. It’s in a plastic grocery bag to keep it clean until it goes back on the bike. I’ll torque the drain plug down at that time, too. That’s all for today. More later.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007 [14424 miles]
Anniversaries, birthdays, holidays, etc., are over so it is time to get back to the R69S. Today the swing-arm is going to come off the bike so I can take a look at the bearings.
First the battery has to come out. I found lots of corrosion around the positive terminal; enough to eat away half of the terminal bolt. I cleaned things up and spent more time than I wished removing the acid eaten bolt.
As long as I was cleaning things up I removed the silvered
tape that I’d covered the battery and applied lots of dielectric grease
around the connections before hooking the battery up to the tender.
The acid level in all cells was OK, but I added a few drops to bring all cells to the max mark.
The luggage rack came off as it makes removing the rear mud guard a bit easier. I think I got it off without adding any new scratches.
As long as the mud guard was off I washed it, inside and out. In taking the first picture, left, I noticed that the clear lens for the license plate light was missing. Wonder when I lost that? I did remove the lens to see if it was inside the “coffee can”: no such luck.
The picture on the left explains one of the reasons I need to remove the swing-arm. The seals are so tight that when I pump grease through the pin it does not force the old grease out around the seal, it just comes right back out through the pin when the grease gun is removed. I’ll take the swing-arm off, check and re-grease the bearings, and install with new seals.
The boot is folded back to access the drive shaft attachment screws. I remembered to have a catch bucket under the boot to catch the oil that lives there. Once the drive shaft screws were removed I backed out the swing-arm pivots and removed the swing-arm. The seals were popped, the roller bearings cleaned and checked (they are OK), then oiled and stored in a zip-lock bag until it’s time to put things back together.
That‘s it for today. I spent more time on the battery than I intended. Tomorrow I’ll pull the transmission and replace the clutch. I think I have all the parts on hand to do that.
Thursday, July 19, 2007 [14424 miles]
The plan for the day was to replace the clutch and support pieces, if needed. As is all to typical when I work on bikes, the plan was not followed to fruition. Details follow.
I started out removing the battery tray, air tubes, speedo cable, and the two electrical connections to the transmission. It looked like the lift straps would be in the way. I lowered the bike onto the center stand and loosened the strap to get access to the transmission from the left side. No problems. I pulled the transmission and set it on some cardboard.
Dirty. I see no signs of transmission input seal leaking, but the face of the transmission is covered in clutch dust. Closer examination shows some wear on the input splines and the nose of the throw-out rod. That’s what I get for using the infamous BMW #10 grease, I guess.
The transmission cleans up quite nicely. I used nothing more than WD-40 and some paper towels. Lots of paper towels. After cleaning you can better see the wear to the input splines. There is a slight step.
In cleaning up the clutch lever I noticed that it was splitting in two. The curved portion moves quite easily with my finger. I suspect that I can salvage this part with some JB Weld for my backup transmission. I’ll put my new, spare lever on the bike when I put it together.
The throw-out rod, bearings, and seal look OK. There is a step on the nose of the rod. Its length, however, is the same as a new rod. I lightly greased the bearing and put the rod and bearing assembly back in the transmission.
Before moving on to the clutch I used a Honda product to lightly lube the input splines and the nose of the throw-out rod. This stuff gets good reviews. It’s got to be better than the BMW #10.
It took me three hours to get to this point. One of the
clutch screws did not want to come out. I
must take full responsibility for this as I’m the one who put it in.
Also, I never got the proper size bit for removing the slotted screws. Every time I went to buy a larger bit, even one too large that I could grind down, the store was out. The too small bit I was using in my air impact destroyed the screw without budging it. Further attempts to get the screw out resulted in nothing more than scratches on the inside of the case or the pressure ring as the bit spun away. What do do?
Finally, I decided to drill/grind off the head of the screw. Yes, this would likely damage the pressure ring, but I’m replacing it with with a /5 version, anyway. My hand drill wouldn’t fit in the space, but I’ve an angle die grinder with a 1/8” collet. I used a 1/8” drill bit in the die grinder to drill out most of the center of the screw. Then I used a conical grinding wheel to grind away as much of the head of the screw as I could. That finally did the trick. Wish I had thought of that first instead of spending time trying other things that did nothing.
The clutch had a little bit of wear left, with 0.8 mm to the rivets and a total width of about 7.75 mm. A new clutch of this type is 9 mm. 14,424 miles ago the clutch was 8.5 mm with about 1.2 to the rivets. I suspect that wear is accelerated due to the type of pressure ring. There are no slots to let the clutch dust out. The new pressure ring doesn’t have that problem.
The remains of the troublesome screw came out without fuss. I used a pair of pliers to do the job.
That’s all for today. I cleaned up and put the other bike back in the garage. It will be a while before I get back to working on the bike unless I can squeeze in some time this weekend. I’m otherwise busy until at least Tuesday afternoon.
Monday, July 23, 2007 [14424 miles]
These are the new clutch parts that are going on the bike. Some of the items were purchased quite a while ago. The cable, on the other hand, was purchased last week. Seemed silly to negate the feel of a new clutch with an old cable.
The clutch pieces are on the bike and the clutch centering tool is used to get the clutch disk more-or-less centered while I tighten the clutch tooling screws.
The clutch is installed… but. I’m concerned about the ribs on the pressure ring. I think they stick out enough to hit the ribs on the transmission case. Do I have the wrong pressure ring, or do I need to grind down the ribs?
Tuesday, July 24, 2007 [14424 miles]
As noted on the /2 mailing list a /5 pressure ring will mount up quite nice—but the ribs on the pressure ring will hit the ribs on the transmission case. Some may consider what I’m about to do a sin; so be it. I’m going to grind away some transmission case ribs.
I held a straight-edge over the pressure ring and measured from the straight-edge to the case. I need about 4 mm clearance. If I give myself 5 mm clearance I should be fine. Transferring the straight-edge to the transmission case I used a Sharpie to mark the places where the ribs were higher than 5 mm below the plane of the mounting flange.
The existing gouges in the case ribs was where a clutch screw once backed and whacked away chunks of aluminum. The gouges do tell me how close to the mounting holes I need to get.
The last thing I want is metal bits stuck to the transmission input splines, especially since I already coated them with a thin film of moly. I masked the splines and input seal then did the rough grind using the grinding wheels I had at hand. This is only the rough cut. I’ll take off the rest of the metal and smooth things out when I replace my conical grinding stone.
Thursday, July 26, 2007 [14424 miles]
I never got to the store to get a new grinding stone so decided to use a medium grit wheel. The yellow card is taped to the straight-edge such that it stick down 5 mm. That is the clearance I need. Makes it real easy to check if I need to take any more metal off the ribs. When the card said I had clearance on all four ribs I did a test fit. Yep. No binding.
Once the transmission was in the bike I hooked up the new clutch cable after giving the exposed portions a very light coating of grease. Kick the bike with the clutch in: easy, the engine is not engaged. Kick again with the clutch out: the engine turns (spitting out the paper towels I had stuffed in the exhaust port!). The clutch works and feels good, too.
I connected the ground and neutral indicator wires then installed the speedo cable and slobbered grease around the portion covered by the boot in an attempt to keep water out of the transmission.
Now that the transmission is on the bike I can reinstall the battery shelf, after giving it and its attaching screws a good cleaning. When installing the shelf I noticed I’d forgotten to install the clutch spring keeper. The keeper is a cable tie that keeps the clutch spring from popping off as it will sometimes want to do.
I cleaned the swing-arm bearings again, greased them, and installed them in the swing arm with even more grease. I may even have used a touch too much grease as one of the new seals wanted to pop out of the swing-arm. I finally got it to stay.
This image shows the swing arm installed, with excess grease coming out of the pivot grease holes. I centered the swing-arm in the frame and adjusted the pivots until there was zero side-to-side play. I will check the play one more time before putting the bike back on the road, but for now tightened the lock nuts and installed the protective caps.
I used the same screws to install the drive shaft that I removed, but they required a lot of cleaning with a wire brush. Once the were clean enough to look new I could see they had not stretched. I installed them with blue loctite. It was the old blue loctite that required the cleaning effort.
I re-installed the boot and clamp as well as the bell crank for the rear brake. Once it was all together I cleaned my greasy finger marks off of the rear parts of the bike and applied a coat of wax to parts that will be covered or otherwise hard to get to when the mud guard, final drive, and wheel are re-installed.
Saturday, July 28, 2007 [14424 miles]
The bike, with the bell crank attached to the swing-arm, is ready for the rear mud guard. I applied a second coat of paste wax to both the frame and the mud guard paying extra attention to the areas that will be hidden once things are together. The scratches on the mud guard are hidden by the frame or the luggage rack. That’s only fair as the scratches were caused by the frame or the luggage rack!
The mud guard went on the bike without adding any new scratches. All screws save those also used to hold the luggage rack are installed loosely in the first image. The luggage rack was then cleaned, polished, and waxed and added to the bike. Finally every mounting screw was checked for tightness.
Next I installed the final drive, using the same paper gasket as it is in good shape. I hope this doesn’t come back to haunt me. I put about 100 cc of gear oil in the drive shaft using the syringe seen in the image. The end of the syringe is attached to about 10 inches of plastic tubing, perfect for filling things like swing-arm and final drives.
For the final drive and transmission I’m using Red Line MTL this go around. It is a full synthetic gear oil equivalent to a GL-4 rated 70W-80. Sounds like just what is needed for this bike. To make sure the final drive was full I put the rear wheel on the final drive so I could easily rotate the final drive, getting the bubbles out.
The engine got 2 quarts of 10W-40. New crush rings were used for everything but the swing-arm fill screw. Seems I ran out of that size of crush ring. At least I had one new one for the drain plug. I’ll have to order some more.
Last thing today was to hook up the rear brake rod, clean up a bit, and put a clean catch bucket where I can see if there are any leaks from final drive or swing arm. I’m not expecting any, but I am re-using a gasket so want to make sure all is OK.
Sunday, July 29, 2007 [14424 miles]
Today I’d like to finish up the rear of the bike which means checking and re-greasing the rear wheel bearings. The first step is to remove the bearing retaining screw, hub cover, and thrust sleeve. I removed as much of the old grease from the bearing retaining screw as possible. Notice the wear on the thrust sleeve. I can’t feel a ridge, though.
My wheel bearing maintenance tools are a spare rear axle (not pretty, but functional) and a piece of pipe with the ends cut square (courtesy of Ed Korn) with a washer an nut. I use this to hold the bearing stack together while I drive it out of the wheel with a dead-blow hammer. Quick and easy.
The next steps are messy, so I did not take any pictures. The
stack was pulled apart and everything cleaned of old grease. I use
first WD40 and then brake cleaner to get the last bit of grease out of
the bearings. The bearings are still in excellent condition.
Everything was oiled and the stack was re-assembled to check the pre-load. It’s fine. The stack was disassembled one more time, greased, then assembled for insertion into the wheel. The hardest part of the task is cleaning the bearings.
Once the wheel was back together I used the brake cleaner to make sure the drum is clean and also cleaned the splines on the wheel and on the final drive as best as I could. I coated both with a very thin coating of the Molly 60 paste and put the wheel on the bike. The axle is done, but I have not torqued the pinch bolt yet. I like to bounce the bike up and down a few time first, and the stand is in the way right now.
With the wheel on the bike I dropped the hinged section of the rear mud guard and bolted it in place. That reminded me to install the new license plate light lens. The lens has a slight flaw, but as it’s in a place where it isn’t seen and was free, I’m not complaining. I do think I should pick up some RTV sealant to help hold it in place.
I was going to install the battery, air cleaner and air
tubes. Well, the air tubes are installed, anyway. I see I haven’t
wired up the rear lights to the junction, yet. The battery will have
to wait. Also, I cleaned the air cleaner housing then found that I got
the wrong replacement filter. I’ll have to re-install the old filter. I
wonder if I ordered the wrong thing or if the wrong thing was shipped?
Oh well. I’ll find someone locally who can use the taller filter. My old filter is still quite clean.
Monday, July 30, 2007 [14424 miles]
I’ve a bunch of pictures of the wiring of the junction box
so I didn’t bother taking a picture before I disconnected the wires to
the rear mud guard. Ooops. Seems like all my previous pictures were
of the old mud guard which had different colored wires. No biggie.
The multi-meter plus a quick look at the tail light told me all I needed to know. Seems I wired it according to at least one version of the book — if you assume that the white wire is really grey!
The battery, now fully charged, went in and a quick test showed problems with the brake light. The bulb is OK. Oh, I pushed the wire too far into the terminal block so I made contact with insulation instead of copper. An easy fix. The only other issue was no neutral indicator. A little fiddling showed that I was in a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd. Easy to do when you’re spinning the rear wheel by hand and shifting with your left hand. When in the proper neutral all is OK.
The air cleaner housing with the old air cleaner is back in the bike. That finishes just about everything in the rear half of the bike. I still have work to do on the front end.
Since they are not going to be in my way when on the bike (and are in my way when on the garage floor) I put the exhaust system back on the bike. I put everything on loose, jiggled things for proper fit, then tightened both exhaust nuts, the clamps on both sides at the foot-pegs, and finally the screws holding the silencers. I also tightened the rear axle pinch bolt while I was in that general area.
Next up is the front half of the bike including front brake, front wheel bearings, and steering. I’ll then finish up by oiling things that need oiling (side stand, center stand, mud guard hinge) and check the spokes on both wheels.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007 [14424 miles]
No pictures, today. I cleaned the front end of the bike and oiled the things that needed oiling. I also attempted to change the grease in the front swing-arm bearings by filling the front swing-arm with as much grease as I could. A little bit of old grease came out of the seal on the left side. I’d like to have seen more, but that’s all I could get. I’ve two adapters for my grease gun to fit the fill valve on the back of the swing-arm and neither work very well. I’m not too concerned as I pulled the front swing-arm to service the bearings at 9600 miles.
Front wheel bearings and spokes are all that are left to do for this service. Valves, timing, and carb tweaking was done less than 500 miles ago.
Wednesday, Aug 1, 2007 [14424 miles]
Again, no pictures. Cleaned and re-greased the bearings on the front wheel and checked the steering. While the wheel was off I used brake cleaner on the shoes and the drum. The bike is back together and ready to ride.